My boutique cruise around French Polynesia and the Cook Islands

I wanted to visit a range of islands and experience several South Pacific cultures and histories. However, I had only a couple of weeks to play with, and this was a lot to squeeze into a fortnight. But then I found the M/S Paul Gauguin, impeccably run by the French cruise company Ponant. This small ship operates a cruise that covers both the Cook Islands and French Polynesia in two weeks. Jackpot!

The boutique cruising difference 

I had always been sceptical of cruise holidays, imagining hundreds of people being shuttled around by bus. In other words, mass tourism at its very worst. However, my experience with Ponant and Le Paul Gauguin couldn't have been further from this. The capacity of this small luxury ship is just 330 passengers, with only 165 cabins. Every spacious suite has exterior views, and many also have balconies.

Life on board the Paul Gauguin 

The ship is all-inclusive for its guests, so you never want for anything on board. There are three excellent restaurants - L'Etoile, the elegant main dining area, Le Grill, a laid back poolside eatery specialising in Polynesian and Asian fusion, and La Veranda, a French restaurant that offers a la carte and tasting menus. 

Breakfast and lunch are served in two of the restaurants, with extensive hot buffet options and additional a la carte choices included at no extra cost. Equally, if you've had a long day scuba diving or exploring on one of the many islands, you can decide to take advantage of the 24-hour room service, again, at no extra cost.

There are three bar areas aboard the ship, too. There’s a poolside bar, a piano bar with a great pianist, and also La Pallette, where there’s always something going on. You can learn local traditions and songs, play bingo or craft local accessories. It’s also a late-night option with a great house band followed by karaoke or le disco! There is also entertainment most nights, with guest singers and magicians as well as local shows with groups from different islands.

Five-star service without stuffiness 

There are over two hundred staff aboard the Paul Gauguin, so the service is top-notch. What surprised me was how many of the staff remembered me by name and knew my favourite drink. Most of the staff could share private jokes with many guests, and the service is truly personalised. It’s laid-back 5-star luxury that doesn't feel stuffy.

Paradise at your own pace 

This cruise is all about visiting once-in-a-lifetime destinations and meeting the local people, but it’s also very relaxed. There are multiple excursions that you can book each day (additional costs apply), or you can explore the islands under your own steam. The travel concierge is always at hand to help, whether you want to hire an e-bike or require some local recommendations. You can also use the onboard snorkelling gear, kayaks, and paddle boards, which are included at no extra cost.

My cruise experience

I decided to arrive the day before the cruise for peace of mind, and this worked perfectly. My flight arrived in Papeete, French Polynesia, at 7am, so I pre-booked an early check-in and got straight into my room. This was priceless after such a long journey, and I highly recommend it. 

The next day, I boarded the ship and was greeted upon arrival with a glass of champagne before being shown my home for the next 12 days. I was in my element. I like to always be on the move when I travel. However, this often means that I’m living out of a bag and lugging my stuff from place to place. The cruise offered the perfect solution, as I could unpack and stay on the move at the same time!

Exploring Huahine, French Polynesia 

Our first stop was Huahine, known as the Garden Island, and it’s easy to see why! It is incredibly lush and green. It gave me a feeling of being in Jurassic Park, albeit without 40-foot carnivores chasing me around! Huahine is completely authentic, and it was one of my favourite islands. There are only a few hotels, and the people are unbelievably friendly. 

Huahine is two separate islands connected by a bridge, and I opted for an e-bike tour of the south. I saw very few tourists but lots of locals coming out of church, hanging out at the beach with their families, or just relaxing on their porches. If you’re looking for a slice of real Polynesian life, this is it.

A day on the deck 

There were only two days at sea on my 12-day itinerary, and I enjoyed both of them immensely. I grabbed a leisurely breakfast, went to the gym, took a dip in the pool, read a book and treated myself to a cocktail (or four!) on deck. 

There were also Polynesian activities available on board, such as weaving hats, making bracelets, and listening to traditional folk tales being told by Les Gauguins & Les Gauguines (the Polynesian hosts). There was also a wine tasting (for a supplement) and guest lectures relating to Paul Gauguin himself, so there’s no chance of getting bored!

Experiencing Aitutaki, Cook Islands 

For me, Aitutaki is pure paradise. I decided to rent a scooter for the day, because it’s a very small island and easy to explore by road. I found a beautiful beachfront restaurant that sold the most amazing sashimi and poke bowls. There were a few people at the beach, and it was pure magic. 

After just scooting less than a minute or two further down the road, I found a beach that I didn’t think existed in real life. There was white sand as far as the eye could see, shades of blue in the water that I’d never seen before and possibly two or three other people in sight. It felt like my own private paradise.

Many of the other passengers chose to explore the Blue Lagoon near Aitutaki. It’s thought to be one of the most beautiful lagoons in the world and a popular attraction for visitors to the island. You can also spend time on famously tiny One Foot Island. Whatever you choose, it’s guaranteed to be truly unforgettable.

Cycling around Rarotonga 

The next day, we arrived on Rarotonga, and I decided to explore the island by e-bike. There’s just one road going around the whole island, so it’s impossible to get lost, and the total distance is less than 20 miles. Opting for an e-bike gave me the freedom to explore at my own pace. 

My first stop was a local market selling great souvenirs and tasty local food. The next stop was the bakery, which felt a little like an exotic New Zealand bakery, as the Kiwis arguably love their pies even more than us Brits! I can confirm that my steak and cheese pie was as good as any I’ve had on either continent!

Next, I continued to Hospital Hill, which, unsurprisingly, is a hospital on top of a hill, with great views over the island. I then stopped at Black Rock, which has impressive street art on the sea defence protecting the airport. There’s also a museum explaining Polynesian history, specifically that of the Cook Islands, which is really informative. 

My next stop was the local brewery, where they make insane mango and pineapple ciders with fresh fruit juice, and I ended my tour with one of the juiciest burgers I've ever had at a brilliant roadside cafe! I also made multiple beach stops along the way and found that Rarotonga is a great island with lots going for it.

Another dreamy day at sea 

After Rarotonga, we had another day at sea as we sailed back from the Cook Islands to the Society Islands in French Polynesia. Again, there were lots of options available to pass the time. Of course, you can sun yourself on deck whilst eating and drinking, but you can also attend enrichment lectures from scientists, head to fitness classes, play bingo, try your hand at playing the ukulele, or learn a local dance.

Soaking up Bora Bora 

Easily the most famous island in French Polynesia, Bora Bora doesn't disappoint, and it was great to have two days here. There are so many things to do and see that one day would feel like a bit of a rush. 

My highlight was a lagoon tour in a traditional-style motorised outrigger canoe. Our guided tour took us to three different spots where we had the opportunity to swim with black-tipped sharks and stingrays. 

We also stopped at a coral garden with lots of colourful fish and a vibrant ecosystem under the sea. It was a real treat. I had hoped to spot just one eagle ray, but I was treated to over 100! We saw what could only be described as a layer cake of these majestic fish swimming in unison.

Not only was the snorkelling world-class, but the tour was also a great cultural experience, with a ukulele player on board and a wonderful commentary. I decided to take the half-day tour and reboard the boat for lunch, but the upgraded option included a Polynesian feast cooked in a traditional earth oven made with volcanic rock on a private motu. It sounded amazing! 

Although there are dozens of water-based activities available, such as jet skiing, sunset sailing trips and private boat rental, Bora Bora is also a great place to explore inland. You can travel by ATV or by Le Truck, a popular open-air tour bus. You can choose whatever activity works best for you or simply see how you feel on the day.

Taha’a and a private island paradise 

This is a day that I will never forget and I still pinch myself even thinking about it. In addition to the ship, Paul Gauguin owns a private islet where you spend a perfect castaway day. Beach chairs, lunch tables and umbrellas are provided for your comfort, along with a delicious BBQ and a full floating bar. 

Watersports such as kayaking and snorkelling are included, along with handicrafts and beach volleyball. You can even book an over-water massage for an additional fee. This is true once-in-a-lifetime experience and exactly what you imagine paradise to be.

Magnificent Moorea 

Moorea has been described as the most beautiful island you have never heard of, and you can instantly understand why. There are great snorkelling opportunities, but also the chance to see dolphins and whales (seasonal). 

There are some beautiful hiking opportunities at Belvedere, or you can explore the lush terrain and secret coves by e-bike. 

I loved Moorea so much that I decided to spend longer here. After the cruise finished with a delectable lobster dinner on the last night, we disembarked in Tahiti. I then took the next passenger ferry back to Moorea.

It only takes 30 minutes by ferry to reach Moorea from Tahiti and, if you're lucky like me, you might see a spinner dolphin on the journey. I really appreciated some land-based time to unwind after my epic two-week cruise, so I recommend tagging on a couple of extra days in Moorea. 

I stayed at the Sofitel, which is only five minutes from the ferry port and has one of the best stretches of white sand on the island. There’s also magnificent snorkelling directly off the beach. What more could you want? It was the perfect ending to my trip.

My thoughts about small-ship cruising in the South Pacific 

Safe to say, I am now a small-ship cruise convert. If you’re short of time or you want the chance to see a range of different islands across a fortnight, this small cruise is the perfect solution. It offers luxury without feeling stuffy, it’s not too busy, and there’s no pressure but to do whatever feels right to you each day. All this is in, arguably, one of the most beautiful regions in the world.

Ready to sail around the South Pacific?

Paul Gauguin operates several different itineraries for the South Pacific, and we can talk you through the details of each one. We can also build a tailor-made trip around your boutique cruise, including international flights, so you can simply sit back and relax. To get started, give us a call on 1273 320 580 or send us a quote request by email. 

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