Exploring off the beaten track Thailand: Lampang and Mae Hong Son

So, is it still possible to get off the beaten track in Thailand? I recently set off on a trip to explore a couple of Thailand’s lesser-visited provinces, to see if there are untouched pockets of the country still to discover. It turns out that if you stray off the popular routes, you’ll find some enchanting places that only a handful of international tourists reach. If you’re looking for an authentic cultural experience in Thailand, head north and veer away from the hotspots.

Thailand is far bigger than you might think, with 76 provinces spanning 513,000 kilometres. In total, it’s over twice the size of the UK. The upper northeast of the country is composed of 13 provinces, and, while international travellers regularly visit the provinces of Sukhothai, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai, the remaining 10 provinces attract very few foreign visitors. This means that there are huge areas of Thailand almost completely free from the trappings of tourism.

Exploring Lampang Province 

Bordered by Sukhothai to the south and Chang Mai to the north, Lampang is a province that has flown under the tourist radar. You can reach Lampang City by direct train from Bangkok (8 – 12 hours), or hop on a Bangkok Airways flight, which takes around 1.5 hours. Either way, it’s a straightforward journey. 

Lampang isn’t a province packed with tourist highlights. Instead, it’s a working province with a rich history, authentic atmosphere, and beautiful undisturbed scenery. This is a great destination for travellers eager to get a real cultural experience, who are interested in homestays, hiking, and local industries. It’s very low key but that’s precisely what makes it lovely.

Lampang City 

Lampang City doesn’t feel like a city in the modern sense. It feels more like a provincial market town, and it’s far more accustomed to domestic rather than international tourism. Again, this is a massive part of its charm. The pace is slow, the locals are friendly, and there's not a tourist menu in sight. 

Lampang City was a key player in the teak industry during the late 1800s when logs were floated down the Mae Wang River, which runs through the centre of town. The iconic Ratchadaphisek Bridge that straddles the river is a great place for a sunset stroll, especially on weekends.

Lampang’s ‘gingerbread houses’ 

The teak trade brought with it an influx of European traders, who left their mark on the city with a charming assortment of ‘gingerbread houses’. These historic teak buildings feature elaborate carvings, ornate fretwork, and higgledy-piggledy design. 

There’s a particularly beautiful example of a gingerbread house (Moung Ngwazin Building) on Lampang’s main walking street, with a passionate owner that will walk you through the history of building. 

Kad Kong Ta night market 

It’s worth timing your visit to Lampang to include a Saturday or Sunday evening, when the whole town comes alive for the weekly night market on the main walking street. 

The street is festooned with lanterns, there’s live music everywhere, and there are more food stalls than you can shake a stick at. The atmosphere is wonderful, and the array of goods is mind-boggling. You’ll find everything from cacti to wedding dresses and deep-fried insects!

Chae Son National Park 

Just 75 kilometres from Lampang City (around 1.5 hours by road), Chae Son National Park is a lush, forested wilderness in the mountains, with manicured gardens, natural hot springs, and creeks. It’s a very popular destination with Thai visitors, who boil baskets of eggs in the springs for their picnic lunches! 

Nearby, you’ll also find the Chae Son waterfall, with 6 different levels cascading into pools filled with wriggling fish. It’s a quiet and beautiful place to spend time outdoors and breathe the mountain air. You could easily spend a whole day here relaxing by the springs, hiking along the nature trails, and cooling off in the waterfall.

Ban Pa Miang Village 

Around 45 minutes from Chae Son National Park, Ban Pa Miang Village is a brilliant spot for travellers interested in community-based tourism. This tea-making village with around 450 residents is nestled in a valley between the mountain slopes, and has taken tourism into its own hands by opening a total of 24 homestays and banning development from outside sources. Power to the people!

‘Miang’ means tea, and this village is all about the tea! Amazingly, nothing goes to waste. The young leaves are picked for tea, the older ones are fermented for “chewing tea” and the dry leaves from the forest floor are used to stuff toys and pillows. The villagers even use tea to make the noodles for the Northern Thai delicacy, ‘Khao Soi’, served with an ice-cold bubble tea. Magic! 

You can spend a night in a cosy guestroom at one of the family homes, eat delicious home-cooked food, and learn about life amongst the tea plantations of Thailand. The locals are unbelievably welcoming, the valley is lush, and the sense of peace is simply magical. This is community tourism at its very best.

Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum 

Almost every family in Thailand has a set of traditional chicken bowls. These are ceramic bowls for eating hot noodle soups and curry dishes. They have an octagonal ‘foot’ that allow you to hold the bowl without burning your hands. Genius! They are often decorated with chicken, giving them the name. 

Located in Lampang, Dhanabadee Ceramic Museum is a shrine to all things chicken bowl. It’s a working factory and museum, and you can join workshops to paint your own chicken bowl. Watching the bowls being crafted using traditional methods is fascinating, and you even have the chance to see the world’s smallest chicken bowl! It’s a great place to get an understanding of local artisan life.

Mae Hong Son Province 

Bordering Myanmar in far northeast Thailand, Mae Hong Son Province is more than a little out of the way. However, that’s precisely what makes it so special. Not many tourists make it this far, and they’re really missing out. If you want to see rural Thailand at its most untouched, this is the place to be. 

Being so close to the border with Myanmar, the province is home to many ethnic minorities (mostly Karen, with some Hmong, Lisu, and Lahu), as well as Shan and Burmese immigrants. While Myanmar isn’t currently safe to visit, Mae Hong Son is still peaceful and open to visitors. Known as the ‘City of Three Mists’, Mae Hong Son town has an enchanting, ethereal quality. 

It’s a sleepy place centred around a calm lake and surrounded by green mountains. On the shore of the lake, there’s an eclectic collection of temples that all, quite literally, rub shoulders with one another. It’s very pretty, and practically tourist-free.

Fern Resort 

Staying at the Fern Resort alone makes the journey to Mae Hong Son worthwhile. Tucked away between forested mountains and rice paddies, it’s a lush retreat from the clatter of the modern world. You could easily spend a whole week here, soaking up the scenery and catching your breath. If I ever get a chance, I’ll go back in a heartbeat. Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie have visited several times, and it’s easy to why! 

The plastic-free resort includes 30 wooden bungalows nestled within the jungle scenery, all built in the local Shan style. The infinity pool offers unbroken views over the neighbouring rice paddies, while another pool is hidden amongst the greenery. There’s a lovely restaurant, a sunset bar, a firepit surrounded by colourful flags, and regular yoga classes. It’s a tiny slice of paradise. 

There are many hiking trails that you can follow directly from the resort that will lead you to the waterfalls and viewpoints of Mae Surin National Park. In fact, you’ll often be guided by the friendly resident dogs! During your stay, you can also learn about local agriculture, hire a bike from the resort and spot tropical birds in the canopy.

Baan Huay Pu Keng ‘Long-Neck’ Village

From Mae Hong Son, we travelled to Baan Huay Pu Keng, widely considered as the only ethical place to visit a Karen (Long-Neck) Tribe. The Karen Long-Neck people are not native to Thailand – they are a Tibeto-Burmese ethnic group from Myanmar who crossed the border as refugees. There has been a great deal of speculation about the ethics of visiting the Karen people, especially around Chiang Mai, because they were sadly exploited and evolved into ‘human zoos’. 

Baan Huay Pu Keng is different, because the villagers oversee the number of tourists that visit them, and they control the terms of these visits. The income made from tourism goes back into the village economy, allowing them to continue their traditional way of life. As refugees, their work rights are restricted, so the survival of the village depends on tourists.

The journey to Baan Huay Pu Keng is unforgettable, as it involves a 20-minute long-tail boat ride on the remote Pai River. Once on shore, our visit began with a brief from the local chief, who welcomed us warmly and told us about the history of his people. Our Karenni guide then took us through the village, where we learned about the significance of the neck rings and the culture of the tribe. 

Afterwards, we wandered freely, chatting to the locals, taking pictures and buying local handicrafts. It’s very important to buy goods directly from these villagers, as this fuels their economy. You can also choose to spend a night here amongst the villagers, which would be a very culturally enriching experience.

The road to Pai 

Next, we began the road trip to Pai, known for its beautiful scenery and laid-back atmosphere. The journey took around 3 hours on an extremely twisty mountain road. If you suffer from motion sickness, be sure to take a pill before you set off. 

Pai Town is a staunch backpacker hangout, so it can leave you feeling pretty darn old! However, the peaceful landscapes around Pai are breathtaking, so I would advise staying in a resort hidden in the countryside outside of the town, such as Reverie Siam. If you do opt to stay in town, your best bet is Pai Boutique Village Resort, just a stone’s throw from the walking street.

During your stay here, you can visit the spectacular Pai Canyon, follow hiking trails of all difficulty levels, relax in the local hot springs and trek to hidden waterfalls. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also try rafting down the rapids of the Pai River. On the outskirts of town, you’ll also find the Pai Memorial Bridge, which was built during WWII as part of the Japanese push into Burma. 

Pai to Chiang Mai 

From Pai, it was another 4 hours along winding mountain roads to Chiang Mai. From there, I flew directly back to Bangkok. However, if you have time, it’s worth spending a few days in Chiang Mai. It's the perfect way to round off your trip through rural Northern Thailand.

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