Where to stay in Zanzibar

Unguja is the main island, more commonly known as simply Zanzibar. With the main city of Stone Town (where Freddie Mercury grew up) at its heart, this is the busier and more developed of the two main Zanzibari islands. Meanwhile, Pemba, which lies further north, is its lesser-known and more peaceful Indian Ocean neighbour. 

Both islands are fantastic to tag onto the end of a safari for a few nights of relaxation. However, for me, these islands are also incredible holiday destinations in their own right. Both offer fascinating Swahili culture, friendly locals, exotic wildlife, and turquoise waters.

So, where is the best place to stay in Zanzibar? If you have time, I highly recommend staying in two or three different areas (including Pemba), as this will give you a deeper Zanzibari experience.  Travel Nation take care of everything, and whatever your wishes, both Zanzibar and Pemba will deliver in spades.  

Why choose Zanzibar over the Seychelles, Mauritius, or the Maldives?

All these Indian Ocean destinations are rich with culture, beaches, and azure waters. However, local life in Zanzibar is more rustic around the edges. Old cars honk their horns, donkeys navigate busy narrow streets and schoolkids in traditional dress cross the street, weaving in and out of cars. On arrival, it can almost feel a little hectic at first, but you’ll soon be drawn in by its charm.   

If you’re craving an authentic experience beyond a beautiful resort, Zanzibar is rich with activity. It’s a real working island with its own unique identity. Zanzibar also tends to be a cheaper island by comparison to Maldives, Mauritius or the Seychelles. Additionally, you can reach everywhere by road, and it delivers great weather at different times of year (Jan-Feb, Jun-Oct and Dec are all fantastic times to visit).  

Getting to Zanzibar and Pemba

Zanzibar has its own international airport with various connections from UK and Europe (usually via a main airline hub). I usually fly with Qatar Airways via Doha, but there are several other good choices via hubs in Kenya, Oman, Ethiopia or Dubai for example. 

The neighbouring island of Pemba has just a tiny domestic airport. Most visitors arrive via a short hop from Zanzibar (30 minutes) or from Dar es Salaam (60 minutes) on the mainland.  A few airlines serve Pemba, I've always has a good experience with local operator Auric Air.

If you’re on safari with us, you can fly to both islands from one of the landing strips in the National Parks, such as the Serengeti. These usually start as scenic flights on a 12-seater Cessna, which all adds to the sense of adventure. While most of these ‘bush flights’ aren’t direct (usually there's a plane switch in Arusha), it can save days of extra driving.  We’ll always work out the best connections, which means you can be on safari in the morning and on the beach the same afternoon. 

Stone Town

The main town near the airport in Zanzibar is Stone Town, a melting pot of Swahili, Arabian, Persian, and Indian culture with a rich history. It’s a myriad of narrow streets with quirky boutiques and markets.

In total contrast to the mainland landscapes and vast African wilderness, Stone Town is all hustle and bustle. It’s almost like stepping back in time, where faded colonial buildings rub shoulders with rustic shacks and bustling markets. A trip to Zanzibar isn’t complete without a night (or at least a day trip) in Stone Town.

Where to stay in Stone Town? I love the beautiful Emerson Spice or Emerson on Hurumzi, as both properties epitomise what Stone Town is all about. One is a nineteenth-century sultan’s palace, but both are full of atmosphere and character. Like Moroccan riads, they’re set over several storeys, with an inner courtyard and traditional furnishings.  

If you love seafood, you’re in for a treat at Emerson Spice, with their delicious five-course tasting menu. For families, I think Emerson on Hurumzi is a better choice, with a more classic menu, traditional cushioned seats, and local music. Both are well-located and they’re unlike anywhere else you’ll stay in Zanzibar. A sunset cocktail and magical rooftop dinner here become a cherished highlight of any Zanzibar holiday.

I also love Kisiwa House, this is a slightly cheaper option and another heritage boutique property, with a rich history. It's located on a quiet street, but steps away you'll be immersed in the alluring aromas, sights and sounds of Zanzibar's most vibrant neighbourhood.

Northwest Coast (Nungwi and Kendwa)

Logistically, whichever beach area you choose in Zanzibar, it’s likely to be around a 1.5-hour drive from the airport or Stone Town. The roads in Zanzibar are slow between villages, with speedbumps, potholes, and even the local poultry to navigate.

Working clockwise around the coast, you’ll find the popular resorts of Nungwi and Kendwa on the northern tip of the island. Both areas are understandably popular, as their white sandy beaches and vivid turquoise seas are probably the best in Zanzibar.

The beach here is steep, so you can swim all day, unlike other areas where the water becomes too shallow once the tide goes out. As a result, this area is pretty lively, and there’s a constant buzz.

Nungwi and Kendwa are perfect if you want a busier area with beach bars and hotels dotted along the spectacular coast. My favourite place to stay in northern Zanzibar is the gorgeous Zuri Zanzibar, a tranquil oasis with 56 well-spaced bungalows set in stunning tropical gardens and a dreamy infinity pool. Zuri in Swahili means beautiful, and this resort doesn’t disappoint! For families, it offers beautiful interconnecting bungalows.

Further up the coast, you’ll find the smaller boutique Z Hotel, which is considerably cheaper than Zuri yet still perfectly formed. It’s a popular choice for couples as they only allow kids over 16 years old during the busier seasons. It's a busy area which isn't for everyone, the beach is west facing, so the rooftop bar is the place to be for a sundowner.

Meanwhile, down the coast in Kendwa is Gold Zanzibar.  This spacious property consisting of 76 rooms sits on one of Zanzibar's best stretches of white sandy beach, if you enjoy evening entertainment this could the place for you. It's architecture is a mix of African and Arab influences, with a contemporary feel.  A stay at Gold Zanzibar supports the owner's Sofia Luna Azzola Foundation, which has recently funded an entirely new kindergarten in nearby Kendwa village.

Northeast Coast (Matemwe down to Pongwe)

I’ll cover this entire east coast in one, as the sleepier vibe is consistent from north to south. Here, you’ll find wide expanses of beach, sparsely populated with visitors and locals alike (there’s often a sunset game of beach footy or cricket to join in if you fancy). If you’re looking for a peaceful barefoot retreat without much nightlife, this is the coast for you.

Starting at the top in Matemwe, the recently opened Mora Zanzibar is a safe bet for a classic five-star all-inclusive resort. It’s a bigger resort, like the type you would find in other Indian Ocean or Caribbean, with several pools and restaurants.

I prefer smaller boutique properties, but the big draw here is the stunning location. Just a short boat ride from the resort, you’ll find Mnemba Island, which has the best snorkelling in Zanzibar and regular visits from wild dolphins. Mnemba Island itself boasts &Beyond's stunning and recently renovated 12 beach bandas, probably the most private and exclusive resort on all of Zanzibar.  Naturally, any paradise as exclusive as this comes with a price tag, but for barefoot bliss on Zanzibar it's hard to beat.

Further down, I really like the beach near the village of Pongwe. Here, you’ll find the amazing Tulia Zanzibar Resort and Spa, which is consistently voted one of the most romantic beach resorts in the world. This 16-room boutique property is such a treat.

It’s popular with couples and honeymooners, as the staff, the food, and the facilities are all exceptional. The resort even has its own organic farm and serves beautifully presented chef meals with homegrown produce in its all-inclusive restaurant (which, in contrast to most resort restaurants, is not a buffet).

You’ll be hard-pushed to find better rooms on the east coast than Tulia’s beautiful seafront villas (these work brilliantly for honeymooners and families alike). Next door, the long-established Pongwe Beach Hotel is another excellent choice. It’s cheaper and more modest, but the beach is lovely. Like all the east coast, it’s shallow here at low tide, but at high tide, swimming is generally fine.

Another favourite of mine for couples is The Island Pongwe, this unique 6 room (adult only) property was built on a natural rock in Pongwe Bay.  This unique island comes and goes with the tide, at low tide you can stroll across to the local village, while at high tide you'll feel like castaways.  The rooms are beautifully done, more rustic but with a very local flavour.  One of the best assets of The Island is the exceptional gourmet cuisine. 

Southeast Coast (Michamvi to Jambiani)

Further down in the southeast of Zanzibar, after passing through the Jozani forest, you’ll eventually reach Michamvi. Here, I really like the peaceful Qambani villas, a beautiful former home with generous proportions converted into 7 spacious villas. It’s ideal if you’re seeking some quality time with your loved ones and longing for total peace and quiet.

This is fairly near the famous Rock Restaurant, a Zanzibari icon located on its own little island offshore. It’s well worth a visit.

In the far south, you’ll find the popular areas of Paje and Jambiani. It’s windier here, so the area is popular with kite surfers. Kisiwa on the Beach in Paje is my pick of the bunch. This is a small resort with 22 spacious villas and a superb pool area.

It’s just a 5-minute walk along to Paje village, with local shops, markets, and places to eat dotted around. If your budget can stretch, the Zanzibar White Sand Luxury Villas and Spa nearby is also perfect. It’s a Relais and Chateaux property, so it comes with a price tag to match!   

Pemba Island

If you’re considering a trip to Zanzibar, I’d strongly urge giving its little brother Pemba consideration too. Most people have never heard of Pemba, but I have such a soft spot for this beautiful and often overlooked island.

A short flight (30 mins) away from Zanzibar, upon arrival it’s clearly a more peaceful experience. Inland it’s green, hilly, and fertile while, at the coast, you’ve often got the turquoise waters to yourself. 

For the best accommodation and beach head north. There are a few options, but it’s the Manta Resort which stole my heart. Set on a beautiful west-facing beach in a marine conservation area, the reef under the turquoise waves is full of life.

If you need to escape and just leave normal life behind, the Manta Resort has become my favourite place on earth. Home to just 18 gorgeous bungalows and seafront villas, and one extraordinary underwater room, it’s truly magnificent.  Every stay also contributes to their inspiring Kwanini Foundation, so just by visiting Manta Resort you're making a hugely positive impact to the natural environment, conservation and local communities of Pemba.

You’ll be introduced to your own local personal service fundi (butler) when you arrive, who will take huge pride in making your stay as comfortable as possible. Everything runs like clockwork, there’s a gorgeous pool, beautifully prepared meals are delicious and fresh, and a daily spa treatment or massage is included daily for everyone. Simply switch off and unwind. 

For excursions, just ask for a guided walk to local villages, meet some families and experience rural Pemba life. Often, the villages have no running water or electricity, so it’s a humbling but incredibly warm and welcoming experience (the local kids love a high five!)   

All standard and superior bungalows at Manta Resort are fantastic, each featuring a silent Evening Breeze cooling system to ensure a great nights sleep.  While the seafront villas, including the new family villa are exceptional, with their own private plunge pools to cool off.

Another highlight of any stay at Manta Resort is a short boat trip to a local sandbank. This idyllic paradise comes and goes with the tides, revealing the purest white coral sandbank surrounded by clear turquoise waters. It’s pure bliss. 

The lack of visitors means Pemba is an incredibly authentic experience.  It’s largely untouched by tourism, which means the environment is pristine. The locals tell me it’s like Zanzibar was 40 years ago, it’s surely one of the world’s last untouched treasures. If you get a chance to visit Pemba, grab it with both hands.

Ready to plan your Zanzibar escape?

We can put together all kinds of tailor-made holidays to Zanzibar and Pemba, including safaris in Tanzania, Kenya, or Uganda. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion, making memories with your family or setting off on a solo adventure, we can help. Simply give us a call on 1273 320 580 or send us a quote request online.  You can also email Jonny who wrote this blog directly.