The perfect Kenya wildlife safari and beach holiday

Getting to Kenya 

I flew direct from London Gatwick to Nairobi with Kenya Airways, which was incredibly convenient. The check-in process was seamless, the food was excellent, and the crew was attentive. The plane was kept immaculately clean throughout the flight – a touch that I really appreciated. 

This was my second time flying with Kenya Airways, and I was very impressed. As there’s only a two or three-hour time difference between the UK and Kenya, you really don’t get any jet lag. It’s perfect!

When to go on safari in Kenya 

I visited Kenya in mid-November, which traditionally marks the start of the short rains. At this time of year, brief afternoon or evening showers are very common. However, during my stay, there were only a couple of showers, and the weather was a very comfortable temperature throughout. The rainfall means that the landscapes are greener, and the animals are less concentrated around the waterholes, but I found it amazing.

As November attracts fewer tourists and offers lower prices than July to October, it’s a great time to visit. You’ll still see absolutely loads of wildlife, and the Big Cats are more relaxed with fewer vehicles around. 

November is also one of the best months for birding. The green landscapes and dramatic skies create fantastic photography opportunities, but there’s still good visibility in the bush.

Of course, other travellers in November may experience more rain than I did – a lot of it comes down to pure luck. Heavy rainfall can lead to very muddy roads, slow safaris, and impassable routes. 

In November, you also won’t see the famous river crossings of the Great Migration in the Maasai Mara, although you will see plenty of herds. If you’re looking for a quieter, more affordable safari and you don’t mind a bit of rain, November is a great choice.

Where to see wildlife in Kenya 

The Maasai Mara has resident wildlife all year round, so you don’t have to visit during the time of the Great Migration to have a wonderful safari. Throughout the year, you can see lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants, hippos, buffalo, giraffes, wildebeest and zebra. 

Tsavo East & Tsavo West are famous for their large herds of “red elephants”, dusted by the iron-rich Kenyan soil. Lions are also present in both national parks, but they’re less concentrated than in the Maasai Mara (although we didn’t have any problems finding them!). 

The Tsavo parks are home to leopards, cheetahs, buffalo, zebra, giraffes, waterbuck, Grant’s and Thomson's gazelles, warthogs, eland, and hartebeest. In Tsavo West, there’s also the chance to see very rare black rhinos.

Starting in Nairobi National Park 

I began my trip with one night at the Crowne Plaza Airport Hotel in Nairobi, as I arrived very late in the evening. This is just a 10-minute drive from the airport, and shuttle transfers are complimentary. The rooms are modern and spacious, the breakfast was fantastic, and the staff were excellent. 

The next morning, we drove to Nairobi National Park, just 45 minutes outside the city, to spend one night at Ololo Safari Lodge, a boutique family-owned lodge on the edge of the national park. This is a great option for those wanting to go on safari close to the capital, without flying to the Maasai Mara, or a brilliant place to spend the first or last night of your trip.

The wildlife in Nairobi National Park is fantastic and, although you can see the city skyline in the background, it really feels like a genuine safari experience. The lodge is ideal for couples and suitable for families with children of all ages. 

After your game drive, you can take a dip in the lovely swimming pool and relax in the sunshine on the loungers. There’s also a lovely outdoor area for alfresco dining overlooking the lodge and beyond. At night, you can dine inside the cosy homestead and enjoy a Dawa, the most famous cocktail in Kenya, which translates to "medicine" in Swahili.

Travelling by Premium Class train 

After our stay at Ololo, we took a 4-hour train journey from Nairobi's main train station to Voi, travelling in Premium Class. This felt like the equivalent of flying business class, with lie-flat beds and seatback TVs, all for less than £100 per person! It had the wow factor for me for sure! I highly recommend it!

The journey to Kipalo Hills 

On arrival in Voi, we were met by Mustafa, our ranger, who drove us to Kipalo Hills. The first of four Secluded Africa properties we visited during our trip, Kipalo Hills is located in the Mbulia Conservancy, a private conservancy bordering Tsavo West National Park. The journey took just over an hour, and we saw baboons and zebras en route. 

Many people also travel between different safari lodges in Kenya by internal flight. If you prefer to fly, Tsavo West has several airstrips, and flights can be arranged instead. However, travelling by road is a treat in Kenya, and every transfer becomes a safari in its own right!

Staying at Kipalo Hills 

This boutique, eco-friendly lodge is perched on a rocky outcrop, offering amazing views and authentic bush-style accommodation. There are six rustic bush tents, but if you want to upgrade to something a little plusher, you can choose the Villa or the Rock Suite. These are both modern and stylish with an African flair.

I stayed here for three nights and enjoyed full-day game drives (with time left over to relax in the swimming pool afterwards), bush walks, and delicious bush breakfasts. I even got to plant a tree as part of the Community Conversation Project.

Kipalo Hills has a watering hole which attracts elephants at sundown, another great opportunity to see these beautiful animals. The lodge is ideal for those wanting an authentic bush experience whilst still having home comforts. However, it’s unsuitable for anyone less mobile, as it’s a little hilly.

My beach break between safaris 

We then hopped back on the train from Voi to Mariakani on the Mombasa Coast. The train journey took one hour and thirty minutes. On arrival, we were met by our driver who took us to Cardamom House, our home for the next two nights. 

Ordinarily, I’d suggest having the beach escape at the end of a trip, but I loved taking a break between safaris. Having already been on safari for four nights, this beach getaway in the middle of my itinerary gave me time to relax, enjoy delicious seafood, and snorkel. It also meant I ended my time in Kenya with a safari in the Maasai Mara, an unmissable highlight on any itinerary.

Staying at Cardamom House 

Cardamom House is a boutique hotel that mixes traditional Swahili style with modern Afro-chic design. Part of Secluded Africa, the hotel has only ten rooms with breathtaking sea views, offering true barefoot luxury. Sitting on a quiet white sand beach surrounded by tropical gardens, this really is the place to unwind. Simply soak up the sunshine, snorkel in the surf, and swim in the refreshing infinity pool.

A special highlight of Cardamom House is the roof terrace at the tower, where you can enjoy sundowners with scenery to die for. There are no set meal times or menus, which was great, and all the food was delicious! I cheekily requested octopus, and it was freshly caught and prepared for dinner that evening. What a treat!

Flying to the Maasai Mara 

Next, we left the coast and headed to Mombasa Airport for our flight via Nairobi to Cottars Air Strip, right next to the Maasai Mara. Upon landing, we were served a welcome drink, and then, within 20 minutes, we reached Instinct of the Mara Game Lodge. This is Secluded Africa’s safari lodge in the Maasai Mara, set within the Olderkesi Conservancy. 

Olderkesi Conservancy feels worlds away from the crowds of the busier Mara region in the northwest. It boasts an abundance of wildlife and is worth a trip at any time of the year, but especially during the “Great Migration” from late July to mid-September.

Staying at Instinct of the Mara 

Instinct of the Mara has an atmospheric ‘mess tent’ with a communal dining area, bar, and cosy couches. At night, you can sit around the fire pit in front of the main tent, which has a spectacular view of the waterhole. 

Families with children of all ages are welcome, and every party has exclusive use of an open safari jeep. This is fairly rare in Kenya, as many other lodges only offer shared safari vehicles.

Instinct of the Mara has seven Premium Safari Tents, as well as a Forest Suite and Private Villa, offering an intimate experience with plenty of privacy and a very personal, attentive service. This was my favourite lodge on the trip. Richard, Nikita and the whole team really went above and beyond to make us feel at home.

We stayed here for three nights, and the experience was simply unforgettable. The game drives here were fantastic, and we had delicious picnic breakfasts and lunches in the bush (it’s also about the food!) The evening game drives all ended with a sundowner on the nearby hill, so we watched sunsets over the Maasai lands with a cocktail in hand.

On our final day, we visited a Maasai village to meet the women and children and learn about the local traditions. We were even invited into a family home, and the people were incredibly welcoming. The culture here is warm and peaceful, with time-old customs and a real respect for the landscape.

My thoughts about Kenya 

This was my second visit to Kenya, and it did not disappoint. From the moment I arrived, I was wowed by the wildlife, the landscapes, and the food. Coming here in November was a good choice, allowing me to avoid the crowds and have an intimate safari experience filled with moments that I’ll never forget. Getting to know the Maasai people was an honour, and I left Kenya with an overwhelming desire to return. You come as strangers and leave as family.

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