My brilliant Kuala Lumpur and Borneo trip

When to travel to Borneo

I set off on my Borneo trip in March, which isn’t generally considered to be the best time to visit the island. March marks the very end of the wet season, so Borneo becomes drier as the month progresses. However, there are still some tropical showers around. In other words, March can be a little hit-and-miss, but I was so glad I took the gamble! The weather was a little unreliable, but this didn’t dent my enjoyment of this enthralling destination in the slightest.

Getting to Borneo 

I flew from Heathrow with Malaysia Airlines on the A350, a really comfortable experience with decent food and film choices. The journey from London to Kuala Lumpur is thirteen hours, and we had a three-hour layover before our two-hour flight to Sandakan. It’s fair to say that, on arrival in Borneo, we were a little wobbly with jetlag. At the same time, we were very excited to explore!

Borneo needs us! 

Flying into Borneo, I was struck by how lush and green the land below me looked. As I got closer, I sadly realised that the green I saw wasn’t all rainforest, but oil palm plantations too. It is undeniable that this lush island is being damaged by deforestation, and our host stressed that conservation and eco-tourism is crucial here. Borneo needs our support as responsible tourists to safeguard its natural habitats.

Staying at Borneo Natural Sukau Bilit Resort 

My first destination was the remote Borneo Natural Sukau Bilit Resort on the banks of the Kinabatangan River. It was approximately two hours by road from the airport, and a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

 With no Wi-Fi, no light pollution, and limited road access, I felt totally submerged in the beautiful forest. The traditional wooden, stilted cottages were modest but comfortable, the food simple but tasty, and the staff were friendly and welcoming.  

Taking a sunset wildlife-spotting cruise

After checking in, we headed out onto the river for a two-hour sunset cruise, spotting mischievous macaques, semi-submerged crocodiles, communities of proboscis monkeys and numerous hornbills. Alas, the allusive pygmy elephants remained out of sight, although according to the guestbook, many other visitors had spotted them earlier that day.  
 
For those who prefer to be slightly less off-grid, the Sukau Rainforest Lodge and the Kinabatangan Wetlands Resort are both fabulous alternatives to the Borneo Natural Sukau Bilit Resort, with the advantage of being accessible by boat from Sandakan. Both properties offer Wi-Fi and à la carte dining. 

Visiting the Sepilok Orangutan Centre and Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre 

After a peaceful night by the river, we headed back to Sandakan to visit the Sepilok Orangutan Centre and the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. These centres are both focused on wildlife conservation, with funding provided by the delighted visitors.  

I can’t begin to understand just what it is about these big ginger monkeys that I find so beguiling. It might be their adorable faces or the knowing looks in their eyes, it might be the playfulness of the young or the parenting skills of the old.  

What I do know is that I was reduced to tears by my encounters. There is a unique bond between us and them, and this bond is treasured and nurtured by the professionals at the centre. 

The sun bears, unlike the orangutans, love the rain and were full of intrigue and mischief as we looked down upon them from the treetop boardwalks weaving through the forest. Located just across the road from Sepilok, it makes a perfect combination for a day trip from Sandakan. 

Exploring the Rainforest Discovery Centre 

After the Sun Bear Conservation Centre, we spent time in the nearby Rainforest Discovery Centre, a wonderful place to hike along tree-top trails in the jungle and listen to the sounds of the forest. There are a couple of high viewing towers offering spectacular views across the canopy and, judging by the number of birdwatchers we met, it’s a brilliant place to spot the rare and unusual birdlife found in this area.

My thoughts about Sandakan

The town of Sandakan is small and easy to navigate, with numerous restaurants and a wealth of historical and cultural interest. As the site of World War II death marches, Sandakan commemorates this harrowing part of its past, and visitors can follow the historic trail around the town to learn more. It’s a great area to spend a couple of nights.

Staying at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria

After two nights on this side of the island, we flew across to Kota Kinabalu to enjoy two nights of blissful luxury at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria Resort; a tropical beachside haven set amongst beautiful gardens with a wonderfully peaceful private beach.  

The rooms have breathtaking ocean views, the food is delicious (especially the twice-weekly buffet night), and there is a wealth of facilities, including a family pool and an adult-only swimming pool.

A sunrise trek through the nature reserve

 In my opinion, the sunrise trek through the hotel’s nature reserve is a must. Setting off before sunrise, the knowledgeable rangers lead you through the forest, pointing out snakes and spiders as you follow the trail up to the summit where a champagne breakfast with uninterrupted views over to Mount Kinabalu awaits. The trail is around 100 metres long and a little steep in places, so be sure to wear trainers rather than flip-flops.  

Making the most of your stay at the Shangri-La Rasa Ria 

As well as the nature reserve, the Shangri-La Rasa Ria has dozens of activities available, making it a great option for those who want to do more than sunbathe, and for families travelling with active kids. The sister property, the Shangri-La Tanjung Aru, is even more family-friendly. It has many kids’ play parks and ice-cream parlours to boot, but it lacks the luxurious feel of the Rasa Ria.

Whilst the emphasis here is on relaxing and unwinding, there are plenty of opportunities for active adventures. I joined a cycling tour along the Tuaran River, where I met local communities, explored hidden mangroves, and watched a stunning sunset over the horizon across the South China Sea.  

The guide pointed out exotic birds and plants as we ambled along at a very gentle pace. It was a lovely way to pass an afternoon, a great activity to enjoy if you're travelling as a family.

Learning about local culture 

For foodies and culture buffs, this area offers numerous cookery classes and gastronomic tours. The Our Land Eco Farm Restaurant offers a unique and immersive farm-to-table experience where visitors can try their hand at planting and harvesting.  

I also loved the hands-on cookery class offered at Rumah Terbalik (The Upside-Down House). We spent a great morning collecting herbs, preparing vegetables, and learning techniques. The resulting meals were spicy, fresh, and delicious and all the tastier as we sat down together to enjoy them with our fellow students.  

The Bajau Sama Cultural Centre is well-worth a visit as it is the best place to learn about the local history and culture, with music and dancing demonstrations, along with examples of traditional housing. Each of these activities are close to the Rasa Ria and offer a terrific opportunity to participate in something more than just the prerequisite chilling by the pool. 
 

Stopping over in Kuala Lumpur

On returning to Kuala Lumpur, I took a couple of nights to explore the city and the nearby Batu Caves. As a stopover destination, Kuala Lumpur offers a wide range of hotels at all levels and the luxury properties here are often much better value than the equivalent accommodation you might find in nearby Singapore. 

With cool bars, extensive shopping malls, and a joyous blending of cultures, Kuala Lumpur left me feeling more than pleasantly surprised. The culture, the food, and the welcome, are vibrant and warm. 

Visiting the Batu Caves

I had heard mutterings that this important temple of the Hindu culture was not worth visiting, being inundated by day-trippers, and littered with rubbish and tacky souvenir shops. I completely disagree!  

I found the Batu Caves to be a wondrous, colourful, and impressive expression of Hinduism. My top tip for making the most of your visit is to go with a guide, as they will explain the significance of the side chapels, the flowers, and the incense.  

I found the Hindu stories informative and enlightening, especially having learnt how closely they are related to modern scientific discoveries. Even if you’re not inclined to take a guide, and less interested in the religious significance of the place, the Batu Caves remain an impressive landmark. It's well-worth a visit. 

The world is your oyster!

With its links onwards to Australia and a huge network of flights within Asia, Malaysian Airlines offers a great option for comfortable flights and interesting destinations to explore. I definitely recommend planning a multi-centre holiday that combines Borneo and Malaysia. It’s a brilliant blend of nature, wildlife, culture, and relaxation. 

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