Our unforgettable Rwanda family holiday

Visiting Rwanda in February

We needed to take our holiday during the February half-term, which happens to be a great time to visit Rwanda. So, it was decided! We boarded a lovely RwandAir flight, direct from Heathrow to Kigali, which is so convenient during the school holidays. On board the A330, we were comfortable and well looked-after, so the 8.5 hour flight passed quickly. With our noses pressed to the windows on landing, our excitement began to build.

Our hopes for the trip 

We planned the trip carefully, because we only had 7 nights to explore Rwanda and a very long wish list! It was clear that this was going to be a different kind of holiday, with more adventure than relaxation. 

Between us, we had a full bucket list of things that we wanted to see and do. For me it was to trek with the mountain gorillas, a once-in-a-lifetime dream. For my son, George, it was the chimpanzee trek. For my daughter, Amelie, with her love of cooking and all things craft, she wanted some hands-on cultural experiences. 

And for Jonny? Well, he just wanted to see our faces as we realised what he had known all along - that Rwanda is a jewel of a country, to be cherished by all those fortunate enough to visit.

Our Rwanda itinerary 

Deciding on a route was reasonably straightforward. From Kigali, we wanted to head out to the countryside, to visit a rural community. Then, we planned to go south to the Nyungwe Forest, home of the chimpanzees. After that, we would head north along the shores of Lake Kivu towards Gisenyi, before turning eastwards to Volcanoes National Park, where I would trek with the gorillas, then finally south back to Kigali. 

We were tight on time, with just one week to see the highlights of Rwanda. However, I recommend spending at least 10 days in Rwanda. It’s possible to go on a Big Five safari in beautiful Akagera National Park, which is a mix of class African savannah and swampy wetlands. Don’t miss that, if you have enough time available! It will add another unforgettable dimension to your trip.

Kigali and the Genocide Museum 

We were met on arrival with a beaming smile from our local guide, Emile, before making our way to the gorgeous Retreat Hotel in Kigali. The city is beautifully clean, there’s immaculate shrubbery all around and not a drop of litter in sight. Even the roundabouts are lovely.

Before doing anything else in Rwanda, it was really important to us to visit the Genocide Museum. We wanted to to understand the history and context of this fledgling democracy. Amelie, our youngest child, is 14, so we gave her the choice to stay back at base with Dad, but she decided to come too. 

Harrowing does not come close to describe the experiences this country has lived through. We were each reduced to tears at various moments, as we struggled to read the personal accounts written by survivors. But we all left knowing the importance of our visit to the museum. It was a difficult but necessary start to our adventure.

Visiting the Women’s Centre 

The next morning, we headed to the Women’s Centre in the Nyamirambo district of Kigali, the beating heart of the city and the centre of the Muslim community. Rwanda has made huge strides in gender equality, with over 60% of seats in parliament now occupied by women. 

At Nyamirambo, we had a great time getting stuck into a cookery class, learning how to prepare and cook the weird and wonderful looking local produce. Our teacher, well she was the boss, this was a place where women are in charge. After a great couple of hours in the kitchen, we sat down together to tuck into our delicious creations.

After lunch we were taken around the neighbourhood, learning about the history and culture of this thriving community. We stopped for an ice-cream (kids) and a beer (grown-ups) in a funky little café on the corner of the pedestrianised street. We also visited a typically Rwandan Milk Bar, where the government provides subsidised fresh milk to the communities. It was a brilliant culturally immersive experience for all the family.

Our family homestay experience 

Next, we headed out of the city with Emile and arrived at the Azizi Life Centre. We were introduced to the lovely Bona, who took us out to meet our host family for the night. Travelling as a family, we wanted to stay with a family, and Azizi Life offers this in association with its rural artisan partners. 

Our hostess Alice didn’t speak any English, so Bona was our translator. We took a walk around her village before being welcomed in her home and invited to help prepare the evening meal on the open fire behind her house. 

Our kids hung out with her kids, we exchanged stories, and shared opinions. Essentially, we had a sleepover, sitting up late into the night, talking, laughing and sharing the Cadbury’s chocolate we had brought from home.

I can’t really describe just how amazing this homestay was. It was hard at times, as the house was basic and the language barrier was challenging. But - oh my gosh - it was brilliant. Alice made us so welcome, with comfortable mattresses and warm blankets in our two bedrooms. 

We learnt so much about rural life and the amazing work of the Azizi Life Centre. Amelie learnt how to make jewellery using traditional techniques. Jonny and George, as boys will do, bonded with Alice’s husband and sons over the football we had brought for them!

Family life isn’t so different from one place to the next. The context may change, but ultimately family homes are places of love and laughter, and we were all so happy to have spent time with Alice in her community and her home. I’ll never forget it.

The journey to Nyungwe Forest 

The next morning, we set off on the long drive south to Nyungwe Forest, which gave us an opportunity to relax and gaze out the windows at the lush green scenery. It also gave us a chance to talk to Emile about the history, culture, and politics of Rwanda. He was so happy to talk at length with us, particularly with our son George, who is interested in all things political and social. We learnt much more than I could have expected and it was amazing for the kids to hear about life in a country so different from our own.

Chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe Forest 

It was a super early start for George and I, as we headed off with Emile in the dark and the rain to meet the guides for our chimpanzee trek. The hour-long walk through the forest was quite challenging at times, slippery and steep, but we took a porter with us who gave us a walking stick and held out a reassuring hand on the tricky bits. 

And then, there they were, way up high in the canopy, our lovable cousins just hanging out together on a rainy Sunday morning. What a treat! There were about 8 of us in the group, along with our porters and our brilliant guide. She shared with us so much information about the family group we were watching, explaining their lifestyles and laughing mercilessly as one of the young chimps pee’ed on our heads!

This was an amazing experience, and I was so happy to share it with George. He loved every minute of it - the trek, talking with the guides, hanging out with the chimps. He did not stop smiling for hours, which was wonderful to see. Afterwards, we re-joined Amelie and Jonny at the hotel, where they had spent a relaxing morning by the pool and Amelie had even snuck in a little massage!

Joining the night fishermen of Gisenyi 

Next, we climbed back in the truck for a stunning drive north along the shores of Lake Kivu, overlooking the DRC on the other side of the water. We arrived early evening to Gisenyi and headed straight out on to the lake in the company of the singing night fishermen. 

As it got dark, they cast their nets for sambaza (like sardines) - the kids got involved and had a great time before lying back and stargazing. We spent a thoroughly lovely couple of hours out on the water in the peace of the night, learning about this traditional fishing method which has such low impact on the pristine environment.

Relaxing at Lake Kivu 

After an action-packed start to the trip, we enjoyed a chilled day on the waters’ edge and kayaking out in the lake. We all love kayaking, especially when the scenery is so stunning and the water is so calm. Our kayaking guide was great, happy to bimble along at a relaxing pace and tell us about what it was like growing up in Rwanda.

Cycling around Lake Kivu 

Adventure soon called again! The next morning, we met our mountain guide, who fitted us up with great-looking bikes before we headed off into the hills. Emile followed along in the jeep, in case of tired legs! 

Our ride took as around the edge of the lake before heading inland through bustling local villages, where we stopped for drinks and snacks, and browsed the local shops. We also stuck our heads in at the local church, where the singing was incredibly joyous and infectious! We all love cycling, so by the end of the morning our faces ached from grinning.

Canoeing on the Mukungwa River 

That afternoon, we experienced another highlight of our trip - canoeing as a family down the Mukungwa River. We floated with the gentle current, surrounding by colourful birdlife, lush greenery and volcanic peaks. 

It was a brilliant activity for the whole family. Our guide Emmanuel was fun and it all felt very safe, with a good briefing beforehand, life jackets, and excellent equipment. 

After our trip on the river, we drove up into Volcanoes National Park, where a roaring open fire and a delish home-cooked meal awaited us at our hotel. Perfect!

Gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park 

Breath-taking, awe-inspiring, slightly frightening – these are just a few words to describe my incredible morning trek through the thick undergrowth to come face-to-face with a family group of gorillas. I absolutely loved it, and it’s an experience I will never forget. What a privilege. 

Eco-tourism is so well organized here - low impact and socially responsible. Our guides were experts, and our porters were friendly and really helpful when it came to keeping us on our feet.

Visiting a local community project 

After my morning gorilla trek, we headed back to Kigali, calling in for tea and cake at Homespun Hope, an amazing women’s community project where the ladies make amazing things from wool. Having raised and then sheared the sheep, the teams of women dye, pick, spin, weave and knit wonderful creations. I could have moved in here! 

My thoughts about Rwanda 

And just like that, we were back in Kigali preparing for the journey home, tired but oh-so happy. It took a long time for it to sink in for each of us. We saw so much and did so many things. Rwanda exceeded all my expectations - and then some. 

What a place! Safe, friendly, warm and welcoming.  I loved experiencing it for myself, but, even more so, I loved experiencing it as a family. It was magical watching the kids fall in love with Rwanda too.  We will all come back here at some point, that is for sure.  We had experienced so much in just one week – it hardly felt real!

My top tips for Rwanda 

Take a guide. Rwanda isn’t a destination to visit independently. It is completely safe and do-able, but you will learn so much more, and see so much more, with a guide. Emile was an invaluable part of our experience. 

Pack light. This place doesn’t require you to dress up and there isn’t a ton of space for luggage in a safari truck. Plus, you might want space in your luggage for a souvenir or two. 

Take gifts. This is especially important if you are visiting communities and families. Think colouring books and pencils, skipping ropes, football shirts your kids have outgrown (a huge hit!), English snacks and sweets. We also took a couple of deflated footballs and pumps, which were a massive hit too. 

Ask questions. Ask your guide all the questions you can think of, it will make a huge difference to your understanding of the country. And the better he gets to know you, the more he will be able to include things you wouldn’t have thought of. Rwanda’s history is harrowing, and the more we learn about it the more we can prevent it from happening agan. 

Carry small notes. Have $10-$20 USD in your pocket for your porters when you go on a trek. This is their only source of income, and they are mostly young men raising families themselves. They are worth every penny. 

Take good footwear. Gorilla and chimpanzee trekking is not suitable for flipflops. It’s also wise to cover your arms to avoid scratches from the bushes and wear long trousers for the treks. 

Be prepared to fall in love. This place will sweep you up in its arms and refuse to let you go.

Ready to plan a trip to Rwanda? 

If you’re thinking about visiting Rwanda, you’ve come to the right place! We can create tailor-made Rwanda itineraries suitable for all types of travellers and give you plenty of first-hand advice, as well as support throughout the life of your booking. To get started, simply give us a call on 1273 320 580 or send us a quote request by email. 

Request a quote