If you’re looking for the ultimate wildlife holiday, there’s no place like Tanzania. The first time I visited this amazing destination, I travelled on an overland adventure truck, slept in a tent and helped cook each evening meal.
This time around, I had a true taste of luxury, staying at gorgeous safari lodges, eating delicious meals, and being escorted to my room after dark by askaris, who are employed by the lodges to keep guests safe from the wildlife. It couldn’t have been more different!
East Africa’s National Parks have no fences. There are no country borders and, therefore, no guarantee of what you will see the next day on your safari. The wildlife wanders free, which is exactly how it should be. The only certainty is that you will see an array of wonderful animals roaming across a variety of landscapes that change dramatically with the seasons. There’s nothing like it.
For first-time visitors, Tanzania’s Northern Circuit includes a fabulous trio of parks with wildly different topography, each attracting a different selection of wildlife (with much overlapping, of course). Between game drives, you will get to meet the Maasai people who live on these lands, often continuing their traditional warrior culture and ancient way of life.
I started in the swamplands of Tarangire National Park, known for its gorgeous baobab trees and large concentration of elephants. I also visited the unique Ngorongoro Crater at 2,200 metres above sea level. Created by a collapsed volcano 2.5 million years ago, the crater is a year-round home to many animals due to its constant water source. Finally, I explored the iconic Serengeti National Park, with its vast plains, endless skies, and huge lion prides.
Kilimanjaro Airport is the ideal place to start your safari adventure in Tanzania, with direct flights into the heart of the bush. It’s a small airport, so the arrival process is pretty painless, and, logistically, it makes far more sense than landing at Dar Es Salaam. Qatar Airways, Kenya Airlines, Ethiopian Airlines and Turkish Airlines all offer connecting flights into Kilimanjaro from various UK airports.
Ethiopian Airlines was my airline of choice, offering a preferred Gatwick service (as well as Heathrow and Manchester). Not only does Ethiopian Airlines offer free accommodation in Addis Ababa on days when the flights do not connect, it allows you to choose a longer connection and still provides this complimentary service, including transfers where required and meals.
Rather than arriving in Tanzania in the middle of the night, I opted for a free overnight stay in Ethiopia, allowing me to take a daytime flight to Kilimanjaro and avoid arriving exhausted before my safari began. Bags are checked through from the UK, and you'll be allocated the in-terminal Skylight Hotel, the offsite Skylight Hotel, or another nearby option, serviced by shuttle buses waiting outside the terminal. Any visa requirements are arranged on-site.
Another bonus with Ethiopian Airlines is that, in the days leading up to your flight, you’ll be given the option to bid for an upgrade to business class or, indeed, buy additional economy seats at a low cost, allowing you to spread out
Please bear in mind that if you are spending more than 12 hours in Ethiopia or another country considered at risk of Yellow Fever, you will need a Yellow Fever vaccination certificate. This applies even if you’re transiting through the country. You’ll go through the Yellow Fever checkpoint before joining the queue for your visa on arrival or the immigration queue if you have pre-arranged your visa.
November traditionally sees the start of the short rains in Tanzania, so the landscape is usually lush and green. However, when I travelled, the rains were late, so much of the savannah was incredibly dry. This is not a bad thing for wildlife-spotting, with a high concentration of animals gathering around the waterholes and lots of Big Cats lounging in the shade of trees, often right next to the dirt roads.
The warmer temperatures also allowed us to take advantage of the lodge's swimming pools for a refreshing dip after a long day on safari. Occasionally, we shared the pool area with the odd visiting baboon or elephant!
The real bonus of travelling at this time of year is the relative quietness of the parks. The joy of being the first to spot a Big Cat and then having time to enjoy them before any other vehicles arrived was something quite special. Sometimes it was just us, and I felt incredibly privileged! Being low season, safari lodge prices are lower, and they often are not fully occupied, which ensures a really personal experience.
Unlike safaris I have done in other parts of the world, in Tanzania, the well-being and space of the wildlife is prioritised. There is an obvious etiquette and understanding amongst the drivers so that the animals are not overcrowded, and everyone gets a fair chance to take their photo!
A major draw for many to this area is the Great Migration, when wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles travel in their millions, following a continuous loop around the parks in search of fresh grazing after the rains.
The key times to see this spectacle are July, August, and September, when the herds make for the dangerous Mara River crossing, and the calving season that spans from December to March. However, we were still able to witness the unending trains of single-file zebra and wildebeest trekking across the savannah in late November.
My trip was a combination of wildlife viewing and lodge research, ensuring that we are choosing the right accommodation and travel routes to suit you, our lovely clients! Throughout the trip, I travelled in the comfort of a hard-sided 4-wheel-drive vehicle with sliding windows and a pop-up roof to allow for wildlife viewing. Travelling overland through the parks makes sense, as you get to experience a greater area and watch the landscape change along the way.
However, if you’ve got limited time and you’re seeking greater comfort, we can arrange a fly-in safari package instead. A flight back from one of the park airports to Kilimanjaro or on to Zanzibar for some beach time saves a long journey back by road. It also introduces another amazing experience - flying in a small aircraft, spotting wildlife and landmarks as you go!
On arrival in Kilimanjaro, I was met by my driver and driven to Arumeru River Lodge, where a resident dik-dik immediately put a smile on my face. After checking into my delightful Bamboo Cottage, I took myself to the empty pool area for a refreshing swim. Dinner was a 3-course menu with several tempting choices, and I fell into a very peaceful sleep.
The next morning, I visited Arusha Coffee Lodge, situated directly opposite Arusha Airport. It’s another gorgeous lodge with individual bungalows dotted among tropical gardens, each with a fireplace and stylish décor. The on-site restaurant serves delicious food.
Furthermore, the Shanga Project at the lodge trains disabled people in the arts of recycled glassblowing, beading, and textiles, providing them with a livelihood. It produces beautiful products that you can buy in the shop and runs traditional craft workshops for guests.
Before or after your safari, a great way to immerse yourself in the local culture is to spend a couple of nights at one of the Maasai-led Amini Life lodges. As part of a social project that brings medicine and education to the Maasai people, the three Amini Life retreats offer a chance to learn about their way of life, traditions and beliefs (with a little additional comfort thrown in) whilst giving back to the local community.
I stayed at the newest and most rustic Maasai Sacred Site. Sleeping in a mud cave with a mesh front is certainly an experience to remember! I only regret not having more time to experience some of their cave rituals, try my hand at spear-throwing, and take a dip in the inviting pool. It’s a place I’ll never forget!
The moment we entered Tarangire National Park, we were treated to our first glimpses of zebras, springbok, and impalas galore. Our first stop was Conserve Tarangire Safari Camp, set amongst the baobab trees and overlooking a seasonal riverbed. The ten tented rooms are simplistically lovely, and ramps make it easy to get around for less mobile guests. What really stood out was the beautifully presented, delicious food that we were served for lunch.
On our afternoon game drive, we saw plenty of elephants and giraffes, and even the silhouette of a lion beneath a distant tree. After a wonderful day exploring Tarangire, we arrived at Mwamba Lodge in the late afternoon for a 2-night stay. The enormous, cushioned seating on the veranda is the perfect spot for arrival and sunset drinks.
At Mwamba Lodge, the individual or interconnecting solid glass-fronted rooms are packed with thoughtful touches. You’ll find binoculars, a free mini-bar, fluffy robes and a specific pool bag to take to the stunning pool, which offers views for miles.
The next morning, we headed out early, taking a boxed breakfast (which we enjoyed at a designated picnic spot) so we could get the most out of our time in the park. We all absolutely loved the swamps, which offered some real greenery and an array of bird life, as well as hyenas, warthogs, and elephants cooling off in the mud.
Then, out of the blue, we spotted a leopard in a tree just a few metres away! It was, without doubt, one of the highlights of my trip. For a brief moment, it was just us and this beautiful creature, with no more tourists in sight. It was simply magical.
We stopped for lunch at Top Guides – Lolkisale Camp, which gave us a chance to view their current temporary camp. This will soon be upgraded to a permanent camp of stilted tents complete with outdoor showers. It’s another stunning location in the heart of Tarangire National Park on the edge of an open wetland, and it will be an all-inclusive safari camp.
In the late afternoon, we headed back to Mwamba Lodge for a welcome swim and delicious dinner. We were all sad to leave our fantastic hosts the following morning, as they made us feel so at home. As we left, they sang their welcome and farewell song “Jambo Bwana” (a song you’ll get to know well along the way)!
Our next stop was Tarangire Elephant Springs by Karibu Camps & Lodges. After passing the aptly positioned elephants drinking from the springs, we were welcomed into this super-stylish property, which has a big design focus. The dining and lounge areas house stunning artwork, and the small infinity pool overlooks the spring in the distance. A shuttle takes guests to huge glass rooms with enormous decking, each featuring a fireplace and outdoor shower (to complement the indoor shower and bath in the room).
After breakfast, we set off with boxed lunches for the famous Ngorongoro Crater. We were met on arrival by government film crews keen to interview us about promoting tourism in Tanzania, apparently to be aired on the country’s permanent wildlife channel the following day!
Next, we descended into the crater with its iconic lake full of flamingos. It’s a surreal and spectacular landscape. My highlights of the crater included watching battling hyena packs and spotting a distant but very definite black rhino.
After the safari, we headed out of the crater, where we were rewarded with incredible views from Ngorongoro Lion's Paw Camp. While this is owned by the same group as Elephant Springs, the atmosphere here is quite different, offering a real colonial vibe.
The temperature is much cooler on the crater rim, so we all loved sitting near the warmth of the fire in the bar and on the decking. We were encouraged to dance and jump with the local Maasai during our sundowners before enjoying a lively meal in the restaurant. It was a great evening.
The rooms are a little less glamorous than those at other camps, but they have all the usual creature comforts and remarkable balcony views. The addition of yoga mats in the room brought me great joy, as I needed some exercise after being plied with 3-course meals, three times a day! The electric blanket and hot water bottle were also lovely touches, and I slept like a baby.
The next day, we visited Wilderness Collection Ngorongoro Lodge, which brought us into the realm of uber-luxury. Enormous thought has been put into every tiny aspect of the setup and styling of the lodge. There are wooden walkways and trees woven into the very structure of the place, which adds a real wow-factor. You can even gaze through your own private telescope from the huge deck of your tree house-esque room.
The family accommodation here includes two huge rooms connected by a lounge and even has a kitchen, in case you would like someone to come and cook for you privately. Every detail is immaculately conceived and executed, and the service standards are second to none. If you’re after true luxury, this lodge is perfect.
Our next stop was the big hitter and main headliner - the Serengeti National Park. Before we even entered the park, we were lucky enough to see a huge pride of lions at very close quarters, which left us all speechless. Next, we had an amazing cheetah experience, again in total privacy. As mornings go, it was a cracker!
That evening, we stayed at the brand-new Wakati Lodge. In fact, the official opening was the very next day! We were greeted by the English and Tanzanian business partners who met on safari as guide and client, before making their shared safari lodge dream a reality. It’s a very inspiring story!
The lodge offers an authentic under-canvas experience in the north of the Central Serengeti, with bucket showers and guest wellies to boot! We spent a lovely evening here, with a beautifully crafted dinner and drinks under starry Serengeti skies. The staff even got up in the middle of the night to see us off for our early morning balloon ride!
From Wakati, we set off for the balloon site, an hour’s drive away. On the way, we saw a lioness with a couple of very small cubs wandering in the dark. It was a super surprise for those of us who had managed to stay awake on the journey!
Miracle Experience is a slick outfit with excellent organisation and thorough safety procedures. From the moment we arrived, I felt in very safe hands. At first, the wind was a little unpredictable, but once we were up, it was an amazingly calm and peaceful experience.
As we glided over the Serengeti, we spotted male lions and even a leopard on the plains. On landing, we were greeted with a glass of bubbles before being swept off for a cooked breakfast at a nearby site, which included a loo with a view!
A longish drive with some brilliant wildlife sightings en route took us to Taasa Lodge, situated just outside the Northeastern gates of Serengeti National Park in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. The beauty of staying outside the official park is that night drives are permitted. Also, you are close to the Mara River, which can be wonderful for seeing the Great Migration at certain times of year.
Taasa Lodge is super welcoming with an almost ‘ski lodge feel’ in the main dining and bar area. After a late lunch and a dip in the lovely pool, we were treated to sunset drinks and a boma BBQ meal. Then, we hopped in an open-sided vehicle for our night drive, hoping to see aardvarks and bush babies, as well as Big Cats hunting.
The following morning, we crossed back into the Serengeti, where we stopped at the very gorgeous Namiri Plains, part of the Asilia group, in the Eastern Serengeti. The property has a fabulous lounge area, a lovely swimming pool, villas with private pools, and a wonderful restaurant. This place has a really great atmosphere, so it would be a great choice.
Our last night was spent at Top Guides – Serengeti Plains Camp. We were very well looked after by staff, including boys who had been trained as part of the Amini Life project. From the camp, we could actually hear the lions roaring in the valley, which made for an amazing final night.
The next morning, our road transfer to Seronera Airstrip even became a wonderful final game drive. We were lucky enough to see a leopard sitting on a log, two more cheetahs under a tree, and a serval running across the road. At Seronera, we boarded a teeny tiny plane to take us back to Kilimanjaro Airport, which was another thrilling experience. Every journey is exciting in Tanzania!
If you’re looking for high-end, stylised accommodation with all modern comforts and exceptional attention to detail, Elephant Springs, Wilderness Ngorongoro Lodge and Namiri Plains will tick all the boxes. Together, they’ll combine to make a great Northern Circuit safari holiday in Tanzania.
For exceptionally warm service, stunning views, and rustic quirks, I recommend mixing Mwamba Lodge with colonial Lion’s Paw right on the Crater Rim, and Wakati with its bucket showers and delicious food. If you have extra time available, stop at Lake Natron for hiking and history, then add a night at Taasa Lodge before heading into the Serengeti.
Finally, I highly recommend a night in one of the Maasai Amini Life properties, as they give you a real feel for Maasai life and a chance to meet the local community. However, be sure to choose your lodge carefully according to your personal level of adventure.
Whatever your personal style and budget, Tanzania is a country that will steal your heart and knock your socks off. The wildlife is incredible, the landscapes are out of this world, and the people are incredibly welcoming. It’s a wonderful destination for travellers of all ages and the perfect place for a once-in-a-lifetime safari holiday.
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Senior Travel Consultant
at Travel Nation

Managing Director
at Travel Nation

Senior Travel Consultant
at Travel Nation
Senior Travel Consultant
With a long and varied list of destinations under her belt, Andrea has travelled to all 7 continents from Antarctica to Zanzibar in her quest to find incredible wildlife and spectacular mountains. Growing up in the north east of England, Andrea had earned her back-packing stripes around the world and already had 8 years’ experience before she joined Travel Nation as a round the world specialist in 2011. She now works in both our Group Travel and Weddings teams and has organised weddings across the world, from glamorous Las Vegas to the deserted beaches of Fiji and loves creating the perfect wedding day for the bride and groom.