Exploring the west coast of the South Island, New Zealand

Arriving in Christchurch 

I arrived in Christchurch, where I spent a couple of nights exploring before heading to the west coast. The hop-on-hop-off tram is an ideal way to see this wonderful city. A visit to Riverside Market is unmissable to sample an array of locally produced food and wine. Punting on the River Avon is another must-do, as well as a visit to the beautiful Botanical Gardens.

Riding the TranzAlpine train 

Next, I took the famous TranzAlpine Train through the interior to the west coast of the South Island. This was a brilliant way to start my journey. The TranzAlpine train is one of the world’s great train journeys, covering 223 kilometres (139 miles) one-way and taking just under 5 hours. The route travels coast-to-coast through the ‘Great Divide’ and through the mountains that partition New Zealand’s South Island.

I travelled in the Scenic Plus carriage, which is certainly worth the upgrade. It’s a fine dining experience with drinks included and your viewing carriage. The views are simply phenomenal. You can either take the train across to Greymouth or, if doing the return day trip, you can make a 2-hour stop at the small town of Moana and walk to Lake Brunner.

Moana and Lake Brunner 

The quaint town of Moana is located on the banks of Lake Brunner, midway between Arthur’s Pass and Greymouth on the TranzAlpine train route. This area is stunningly beautiful, with mountains rising above the glassy waters of the West Coast’s second-largest lake. Only 19 miles from Greymouth, it is a haven for water sports and trout fishing and ideal for a short stopover before beginning your west coast road trip. 

Staying at Lake Brunner 

If you decide to spend a night at Lake Brunner, the Hotel Lake Brunner is a wonderful choice. It’s a lovely 3-star hotel that overlooks the lake and offers apartments with mini kitchenettes. The hotel has its own outdoor hot tubs for rent within the grounds, and these are great for stargazing at night. The location is ideal for biking trails and provides easy access to the nearby Glow Worm caves.

Getting to know Greymouth 

Greymouth sits in the middle of the South Island’s West Coast, and it’s the largest town in the region. Surrounded by wind-carved cliffs, untouched beaches and deep green valleys, its setting is staggering. Connected to Christchurch by the TranzAlpine, it’s the gateway to the ‘wild west’. 

Monteiths Brewery

Established in 1868, this is the original birthplace of craft brewing in New Zealand. It is no longer an active brewery but instead offers tours of the brewing process. It’s also a popular food and drink venue. It’s worth dropping in for a pint if you’re in Greymouth. 

Staying at Breakers Boutique 

This boutique property with only four rooms is a real gem. Located just 10 minutes from Greymouth, it’s a real home away from home. It has a beautiful beachfront setting and superb views of the Tasman Sea. The owner bakes her own pies, pizzas and brownies for guests. I highly recommend it!

Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes 

This is the West Coast’s most visited natural attraction. Set against the backdrop of the rugged coastline, the pancake-shaped rock formations, blowholes, and rock pools are something different. There is an easy 20-minute loop along a boardwalk and paved pathway with a viewing area for taking photos. Ideally, visit at high tide when you will witness the blowholes at their most powerful.

Staying at Scenic Hotel Punakaiki 

This 3-star hotel is just a three-minute drive from Pancake Rocks and overlooks the Marine Reserve Beach, with stunning views in all directions. Each cabin-style room is very spacious, with both a fridge and a microwave. The views from the restaurant are also spectacular, so it’s a lovely spot to spend a night or two.

Stargazing at Punakaiki 

The dark skies of New Zealand’s South Island offer some of the best stargazing in the world, and Punakaiki is a great spot to look up at the night sky. There’s a purpose-built observatory where you can enjoy a 2-hour guided tour of the Milky Way and star constellations. It’s out of this world!

Coal Creek Falls Track 

Coal Creek Falls is a gentle 2-hour round-trip scenic walk through the forest to a gorgeous lookout point, with hidden waterfalls scattered along the way. It’s a peaceful and beautiful way to spend a morning. The trail is popular for bird watching too, so don’t forget your binoculars! 

Hokitika Gorge 

Hokitika Gorge is another amazing place for a gentle hike. It’s a well-marked forest trail that leads to a stunning waterfall, and the turquoise water along the gorge walk is mesmerising. Crossing the suspension bridge is a real highlight of the trail. The track is an easy 1-hour 30-minute loop, and it’s accessible for all.

Staying at Rimu Lodge, Hokitika 

This 5-star boutique homely property really has the wow factor. It’s a peaceful adult-only retreat that looks out across the Hokitika River to the mountains beyond. All the rooms are finished to a high standard, and the atmosphere is really welcoming. The owner puts on ‘Happy Drinks’ on the terrace in the summer or the indoor fire in winter. No visit here would be complete without a trip to the local pub “Woodstock” down the road, for live music and great food.

West Coast Treetop Walk and Zipline 

Just 15 minutes from Hokitika, the West Coast Treetop Walk and Zipline is great fun for all the family to enjoy. Set off on a 1-hour stroll through the rainforest treetops, followed by an adrenaline-inducing 450m zipline 20 metres above the forest floor. I loved every minute of it! 

Staying at Hokitika Fire Station Apartments 

Situated in Hokitika’s town centre, this boutique property used to be the local fire station. Each apartment has lots of memorabilia and even a fire pole! The five apartments feature mini kitchenettes, and they’re all finished to an extremely high spec. It’s a great spot for a quirky stay!

Cruising on Lake Mapourika 

Just an hour and a half south of Hokitika, you can take a boat and cruise across beautiful Lake Mapourika with breathtaking views of Franz Josef Glacier in the distance. This scenic cruise is combined with a guided nature walk, which is both interesting and informative. Lake Mapourika is home to all kinds of native birds, including the rare White Heron, attracted by the abundance of fish and eels in the lake.

Franz Josef and Fox Glacier flight 

A further ten minutes down the road, this is undoubtedly an experience of a lifetime. You can choose from five different routes with varying durations and prices, ranging from scenic flights to heli-hikes. The helicopter accommodates up to five passengers plus the pilot, and everyone has magnificent views through the windows. I have taken helicopter trips in other countries, but this was extra special. I’ll never forget the staggering views as I soared over the glaciers, and I cannot recommend this enough.

Staying at Te Waonui Forest Retreat 

This is the only 5-star hotel along New Zealand’s West Coast, so it’s a wonderful place to treat yourself to a touch of luxury. With just one hundred rooms, it offers a very high-end experience in a secluded forest retreat. The rooms are extremely spacious with elegant finishes and private balconies overlooking the forest. There’s a cosy lounge bar with a fire and an upstairs restaurant offering New Zealand’s finest cuisine. 

Kinross wine tasting 

Heading inland towards Queenstown, Kinross is the official Cellar Door for five of the most stunning wine labels in Central Otago – Hawkshead, High Garden, Kinross, Valli and Wild Irishman. It’s home to New Zealand’s oldest wine cave and offers both gourmet food and wine experiences. From here, you can also cycle on some of the top trails around Queenstown, including the Arrow River Trail and the Gibbston River Trail.

Staying at Kincross Cottages 

Located 20 minutes’ drive from Queenstown, this is an ideal place to get away from the hustle and bustle and enjoy the beautiful accommodation at the winery. It’s a 4-star boutique property with just 14 Studio Cottages with full kitchens, offering either vineyard or garden views. 

During the summer, there’s live music in the wine garden for you to enjoy as you sip. The hotel also has hot tubs for up to four people, so you can enjoy a glass (or two!) as you gaze up towards the night sky.

TSS Earnslaw & Walter Peak Farm with Gourmet BBQ

This is a lovely tour from Queenstown aboard the TSS Earnslaw, built 112 years ago, in the same year as the Titanic. You’ll cruise across Lake Wakatipu to the beautiful Walter Peak High Country Farm. 

After arriving aboard this vintage steamboat, you can enjoy a gourmet barbecue lunch or dinner served at the Colonel’s Homestead restaurant. Make sure you go with an empty stomach as the food is superb! This is still a working farm, so don’t miss the sheep shearing demonstration or showmanship by the farm’s sheepdogs.

Staying at Sudima Five Mile Frankton 

The Sudima Queenstown Five Mile is a new 4.5-star hotel in the bustling Frankton area. It’s conveniently located in the Five Mile retail precinct close to the airport. This hotel is a great option because it has an abundance of parking (which is a well-known problem in Queenstown!) and has easy access to downtown Queenstown. The rooms are lovely and comfortable too. 

Milford Sound Cruise 

You can’t visit the South Island without seeing Milford Sound, New Zealand’s most stunning natural attraction. It’s a magical combination of mountain peaks, dark waters, waterfalls and dramatic cliffs. You can also include a buffet lunch onboard to complete your experience. Milford Sound is a pristine haven for birdlife, dolphins, fur seals and endangered species such as the Fiordland Crested Penguin.

Queenstown Skyline 

Take the gondola up to the top to enjoy amazing views over Queenstown and beyond. Once at the top, you can enjoy the iconic luge or dine at the Skyline’s Stratosfare Restaurant & Bar. The buffet here is something else - it even rivals some top-end London restaurants! Here you can enjoy a meal with panoramic views of Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu, and the surrounding mountains.

K Jet Boat – Frankton Jetty 

This Queenstown Jet boat ride races across three waterways, travelling at speeds of up to 95kph in the fastest and meanest jet boats in town. You’ll blast across Lake Wakatipu and down the world-famous Kawarau and Shotover River with 45km of unforgettable thrills and 360-degree spins. Open 365 days a year, it operates a jetboat airport transfer, and there are also departures from Frankton Jetty to save you the journey into downtown Queenstown. It’s very family-friendly - kids can ride from just two years old.

Glenorchy Air Flight 

Glenorchy Air is Queenstown's premium scenic flight company based at Queenstown Airport. It offers personalised flights to Milford Sound, Mt. Cook, Mt. Aspiring, and Stewart Island. The light aircraft accommodates between 7 and 13 passengers, each with their own window seat, so you’re guaranteed unobstructed views. I flew from Queenstown to Mount Cook with gorgeous glacier views along the way.

Lake Tasman Glacier Explorer Boat 

A stay at Mt Cook would be incomplete without taking a ride on Lake Tasman. The Glacier Explorers 2.5-hour trip is a great way to experience the Tasman Glacier in an incredibly unique way. After a refreshing half-hour walk to the terminal lake of the Tasman Glacier, you’ll board the boat to explore the melting ice face of the Tasman Glacier, sailing past icebergs that have calved into its waters. You spend one hour cruising slowly through the water while learning about the glacier. It’s unlike anything I’ve ever experienced, and we were even able to touch the icebergs!

Hooker Valley Trail 

The Hooker Valley Trail is only an 8-minute drive from Mt Cook Village, and it’s a stunning 10km hiking loop that takes 3 – 4 hours. It’s an easy, enjoyable walk that passes the Glacier Lake and Hooker River, crossing swing bridges along the way. If you enjoy hiking, it’s an excellent option. 

Staying at The Hermitage Aoraki Mt Cook 

This 4-star hotel faces out towards Mt Cook & Mt Aspiring, so the views are stunning. It’s home to the Sir Edmund Hillary Explorer Museum and offers both 2D and 3D cinematic experiences, as well as educational documentaries in the auditorium. There are 4 hiking trails that start from the doorstep of the hotel, including the famous Hooker Valley Track. I stayed in the new Aoraki Wing, which is just over one year old. The Premium Rooms have 6-foot bedroom windows that offer amazing views.

Lake Tekapo Dark Sky Project 

Four hours north of Queenstown, Lake Tekapo is a gorgeous place to stop on a South Island road trip. The Lake Tekapo Dark Sky Project is an indoor guided educational and entertaining astronomy experience suitable for the whole family. The 45-minute interactive journey gives insight into Māori astronomy and the Milky Way. 

Lake Tekapo Hot Springs 

Located at the base of Mount John, with views of Lake Tekapo and the mountain ranges beyond, you can relax in one of the three hot pools here. There’s an Aqua Play Area with two cooler pools, a steam room, a sauna, and a cold plunge pool. In summer, you can also play mini golf and, in winter, you can go ice skating. All year round, you can do stargazing while soaking in the springs.

Exploring Akaroa 

This quaint seaside town on the Banks Peninsula is an easy 90-minute drive from Christchurch. Formerly a French settlement, it’s now famous for its French cuisine, sightseeing, harbour and dolphins. From October to April, there’s a farmers' market every Saturday. During my visit, I took an unforgettable nature cruise with Black Cat Cruises, where I saw an abundance of the world's smallest and rarest dolphin, the Hector's dolphin, along with New Zealand fur seals and a variety of coastal birds.

My thoughts about the west coast of the South Island

This was my second visit to New Zealand’s west coast, and it did not disappoint. It’s a wonderful destination that offers something for everyone - rugged coastlines, beautiful beaches, scenic walks, longer hikes, stargazing opportunities, glaciers, lakes, nature, and a range of adrenaline activities. Perfect for families, solo travellers, and couples alike, New Zealand is a destination to be enjoyed by all.

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