The perfect one-week Taiwan itinerary

Most travellers visit Taiwan briefly during a stopover in Taipei, but this destination deserves so much more time and exploration. I'm here to tell you that this small country, which is only the size of Wales, packs a massive punch. I’ve just spent one week in Taiwan, and it definitely wasn’t long enough! Taiwan is somewhere that will appeal to travellers of all ages, and you need to visit before the secret gets out.

Getting to Taiwan 

I flew to Taiwan with Thai Airways via Bangkok in business class, which was a real treat. I was connecting straight through, but I still managed to enjoy some pad thai and a Chang beer in Bangkok airport. Of course, if you have more time, you can combine Thailand and Taiwan into a multi-centre holiday, experiencing two very different but equally welcoming countries. As you’re flying with the same airline, there’s no extra cost to add some time in Thailand.

When to travel to Taiwan 

I travelled to Taiwan in October, which is a very lovely time to visit. The humidity is relatively low, the sun shines regularly, and rainfall is rare. At the same time, the leaves are turning all kinds of shades of orange, yellow, and red, which is beautiful to see. 

In general, autumn is a wonderful time to explore Taiwan, and spring is another great option. In mid-spring, the trees are blossoming in the mountains, but the temperatures are still mild, and the summer typhoons haven’t yet set in.

My one-week Taiwan itinerary 

After arriving at Taipei airport, we met our friendly local driver and headed downtown. We dropped the bags at the hotel, had a quick freshen-up, and set off to explore. The metro in Taipei is very easy to navigate, and there are usually English speakers on hand if you get stuck at the machine.

Getting a traditional Taiwanese massage 

After getting lost in a jumbo toy store, which was quite an experience, we went for a traditional Taiwanese foot massage. This intense style of reflexology is designed to improve blood flow and relieve fatigue. It's perfect after a long flight, and you can opt for a head and shoulder massage if that's more up your street. Just don't forget the safe word ‘Tòng’ (painful) if it all gets too much!

Dinner at ‘Taiwanese Wetherspoons’ 

On the first evening, we had dinner in what our English-speaking guide described as 'Taiwanese Wetherspoons'. Intriguing! Luckily, there wasn't a microwaved curry in sight! Instead, there was a lively pub/restaurant vibe that felt young and vibrant. 

People were sharing after-work drinks, catching up with friends, sharing beers and grabbing good food, all at a very reasonable price. The meal here was delicious, especially the candied prawns, and offered a little taster of the incredible food we had in store for the rest of the week. I was excited for what lay ahead!

Taking the bullet train to Tainan

 After an Asian buffet breakfast (with plenty of western options available), we took a short transfer to the train station before boarding the bullet train to Tainan, Taiwan's oldest city. Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR) separates Taipei in the north and Kaohsiung in the south in just over 90 minutes! That’s unbelievably fast! Travelling by bullet train is a real must-do in Taiwan. It’s fascinating to see the different cities and countryside zip by the windows.

Tainan: a step back in time 

Whilst Taipei is a bustling modern metropolis, Tainan feels like taking a step back in time. It captures the spirit and slower pace of ‘Old Taiwan’, with a traditional feel and some of the oldest temples in Taiwan. Wandering the narrow streets, browsing the traditional markets and exploring hidden temples is a lovely way to spend time in this atmospheric city.

Baking a local pineapple cake 

A must-do during your stay in Tainan is trying your hand at baking the local favourite - Pineapple Cake. Like a buttery shortbread with a Jaffa cake-like filling and a whole lot of pineapple, it is really tasty and fun to make.

Visiting the Ten Drum Cultural Village 

In Tainan, we also had the opportunity to watch a Taiwanese performance at the Ten Drum Cultural Village. This is a quirky amusement park like no other, set within a converted sugar mill. Here, you’ll find zip lines, group drum lessons, and vast halls that will make you feel like you are in a Harry Potter film.

The experience ends with a performance by the Ten Drum Art Percussion Group, who were nominated for a Grammy Award in 2010. All in all, the bizarre little village blends culture, fun and kookiness - which would be an accurate description of Taiwan as a whole!

Go next door to the Chimei Museum 

Next, we popped next door to the Chimei Museum, a world-class museum that looks every bit as spectacular from the outside as the art is on the inside. The museum is designed for all ages, and showcases an eclectic mix of Western art, fossils, taxidermy, and weaponry, as well as the world’s largest violin collection. 

The dramatic exterior mimics Greco-Roman architecture, with a white-columned façade, an angel-topped dome, and a replica of the Apollo Fountain from Versailles. It’s quite a sight to behold!

Eating our way around Tainan 

The food in Tainan is just as great as in Taipei, and the local dumpling restaurant was a standout. The previous holder of a Michelin Star in Taipei, Din Tai Fung offers service, style and substance on point. You can’t leave without trying the famous soup dumplings.

The traditional hotpot, which arrives with raw meats and veggies to be cooked in the broth at your table, is also a fun experience. For the more adventurous, you can even sample a local duck blood cake!

Touring the food markets of Taiwan 

For me, the best culinary experience was the food markets. Tainan Garden and Raohe Night Market in Tainan offered a real feast for the senses, with new sights, sounds and smells at every stall. You can spend hours in these markets, weaving through the hungry crowds, tasting local snacks, or sitting back and watching it all unfold with a cold beer.

Exploring Sun Moon Lake 

Next, we headed out of the city lights to the peace of Sun Moon Lake. This was like another world altogether, and it offers a brilliant contrast to the weird and wonderful cities. Smack bang in the centre of the country, Sun Moon Lake is a totally serene place to take a breath and soak up the scenery. It is incredibly easy to reach by train to Taichung, and some hotels even offer a shuttle from the station.

This is the great outdoors, Taiwan style. We took a boat trip and took in the stunning views across the lake. When we disembarked, we were greeted by singing and dancing from an indigenous older couple. We then took a short walk up to the Buddhist Xuanguang Temple.

Walking equals reward in Taiwan, so temples and pagodas are usually built on hills. This is all to do with Feng Shui – creating balance and harmony as well as spiritual elevation. The short but sometimes strenuous walks reward you with gorgeous sites such as Wenwu Temple and Ci’en Pagoda. I highly recommend going for a scenic cycle around at least part of the lake, and e-bikes are available if you find it too strenuous in the heat.

Staying at Wyndham Sun Moon Lake 

The Taiwanese know a thing or two about wellness, and we were certainly spoiled rotten at the Wyndham Sun Moon Lake. Every room has its own hot spring with a lake or mountain view, known locally as a ‘Beauty Soup’! After grabbing a selection of local street food for dinner, we were more than happy for a quiet evening in and a soak in the Beauty Soup!

Indulging in Taiwanese retail therapy 

After another morning admiring the serenity of the lake, we made the return journey to Taipei. After a scenic transfer via a tea plantation, we took the bullet train back to the capital for some retail therapy in the Ximending shopping district. This area is ace. It is a hustling, bustling, and vibrant area, popular with the young Taiwanese. It is bright, weird and wonderful, and home to many themed 7 Eleven convenience stores and Hello Kitty shops.

There are food stalls (don’t skip the flame-torched steak bites!), open-fronted tattoo studios, clothes, knick-knacks, toys and just generally quirky stuff throughout, with plenty of options for bubble tea, bao buns, and many other delights. For me, this was a real highlight of the trip – I absolutely loved it.

Seeing the official sites of Taipei 

The next day, we visited Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall, the National Revolutionary Martyrs' Shrine and the very impressive changing of the guards. The intricacy of the choreography in this ceremony is really quite something – it’s a definite must-see if you’re in Taipei. The guards almost seem to move in slow motion whilst elaborately twirling their rifles like cheerleaders’ batons.

A Taiwanese spa day 

To cap off my visit to this diverse destination, I headed into the hills for one more spa experience, just on the outskirts of Yangmingshan National Park. Here, hot springs, spa pools, natural treatments, and total relaxation are the aim of the game. I came away disappointed that I didn’t have more time to explore the beauty of this region, although the humidity may put off all but the real hiking enthusiasts.

My thoughts about Taiwan 

Taiwan is a delightful, open country that is full of quirky surprises. With a mixed past shaped by periods of both Chinese and Japanese rule, it is now a thriving destination enjoying its independence. 

Thanks to AI, it’s somewhere currently experiencing a massive economic and technological boom, which makes it even more fascinating to visit. The people are friendly, and English is widely spoken, making it easy to explore. On top of that, the food is simply out of this world. I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Tempted to explore Taiwan?

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