My totally unforgettable Uzbekistan trip
TripBlogs
There are very few regions of the world that still retain a real sense of exploration and adventure. One of these regions is definitely Central Asia, comprised of the ‘Five Stans’ - Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan.
Uzbekistan is packed with history, religion, mystic, cultural and architectural wonders, without being packed with tourists. So, when I was offered a trip to Uzbekistan, I simply couldn’t say no. I don’t know anyone that has visited this country and, I have to admit, that I knew little about it before I set off.
Uzbekistan in spring
I began my Uzbekistan adventure at the end of March, when it’s starting to warm up after the long, freezing winter, where temperatures can plummet to minus 20 degrees. In total contrast, peak summer temperatures in Uzbekistan can exceed 40 degrees. This means that spring and autumn are both perfect seasons to visit, sitting somewhere between the two extremes.
Exploring Tashkent
Flying into the capital, Tashkent, we spent our first day exploring the main squares and historical buildings, one of which containing one of the oldest Qurans in the world. We also visiting the a few of the beautiful metro stations, which are all individually designed and decorated. In fact, it’s worth riding the metro just to view the stations.
I was immediately struck by how clean and orderly everything seemed to be. The streets are even swept daily! There are many amazing bazaars and markets throughout the city, they offer a wonderfully relaxed shopping experience. There is absolutely no hassle, and everything is very good value. Compared to other countries in Asia, shopping here was a breeze, and we bought all kinds of authentic and interesting souvenirs.
Learning about Uzbek cuisine
We also were introduced to the Uzbek cuisine, which, I must admit, is much tastier than I had anticipated. The national dish, plov, is a mixture or rice, meat, and vegetables cooked with oils and spices. It’s delicious! Samsa is also fantastic, a meat filled pastry that’s cooked by sticking it to the inside of a traditional oven.
During the trip, we tried a variety of breads, soups, salads, meat (including horse as an option), fish, rice, potatoes, noodles, and dumplings. There were plenty of good vegetarian options as well. Each meal had several courses, so we certainly well fed!
After having a beautiful lunch with a local family in Tashkent, we took part in a pottery demonstration and got to paint our own plate. This was a brilliant experience and the plate I painted is an excellent keepsake from the trip.
Soaking up the history of Bukhara
On leaving Tashkent, we took a flight to Bukhara, a medieval holy old town full of Islamic monuments, caravanserais, bazaars, and covered trading domes. The centre of Bukhara has a lovely atmosphere with traditional-style buildings and an almost Bedouin feel, with madrassas (religious schools), mosques and minarets.
As it’s pedestrianised, Bukhara is a wonderful place to wander, shop, visit a tea house, or grab a meal and a beer around ponds with swans. You’ll find great bazaars packed with world-class cotton and silk carpets, so be prepared to shop!
Meeting the local community
During our visit to Bukhara, we had some great human interactions and insights into life in Uzbekistan. First, we met an inspiring local lady who set up a shop in collaboration with abused women from the community, making the highest quality carpets.
Next, we visited a famous puppet and miniature painting shop, where the experts guided us through some painting of our own. It’s safe to say that we won’t be putting the professionals out of a job anytime soon!
Exploring sacred shrines and palaces
Some of the major sights of Bukhara include the Chashma-Ayub shrine, a sacred pilgrimage site from the 9th century. Having been buried in sand for centuries, it’s incredibly well-preserved.
No trip to Bukhara is complete without visiting the Fortress Ark of Bukhara fortress, which contains the palace of the last emir of Bukhara and was built in the 5th century AD. It offers great views over the city.
I also recommend visiting the summer palace on the edge of the city. It’s definitely worth having a local guide, and they’ll bring the rich history to life.
The journey to Samarkand
Moving on from Bukhara, we took an excellent high-speed train to Samarkand. The stations are modern and clean, while the trains are comfortable, quick and on time. There was a drinks carriage, where we chatted to travellers and locals as we watched the desert pass by outside the window.
Discovering Samarkand
No city is as evocative of the Silk Road as Samarkand. It’s somewhere that you can follow in the footsteps of many historic rulers, including Genghis Khan and Alexander the Great. A visit to the city is like taking a step back in time.
Samarkand is a jewel in both Central Asia and the whole of the Islamic world, with incredible monuments built by Emir Timur when he made the city his capital in the 14th century. Over 2,700 years old, it’s one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, and it had to move its location after being sacked by Genghis Khan in 1220.
In 1370, Emir Timur made Samarkand his capital and built the amazing monuments that still stand today. During a devastating period, Timur waged a whopping thirteen wars, winning them all and ending the Mongol rule of Genghis Khan. However, after Timur’s death, his dynasty only lasted a further 100 years before being divided amongst his descendants.
The main sights of Samarkand
Registan Square is one of THE sights in Central Asia and the Islamic world. It’s a spectacular ensemble of tilting madrassas built between 15th and 17th century. In the days of the Silk Road, there would have been a huge bazaar here, as it was a major trading point, and there still are numerous market stalls in the square today. The square was heavily damaged by time and earthquakes, but the Soviets restored them consistently throughout 20th century.
Another must see in Samarkand is the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, built during the 14th century. Once one of largest mosques in world, its vastness is jaw-dropping. You need to visit both the mosque and Registan Square at night as well as during the day, because the illuminations are simply spectacular against the darkness.
We also visited the Shah-i-Zinda Mausoleum, which was a very moving experience. The site contains stunning huge burial tombs with incredible tile work and mosaics. Many of Timur’s family tombs are here, with several mysterious unmarked tombs as well.
We ended our time in Samarkand with a visit to El Merosi, the theatre of historical costume, where dancers showcase the costumes from the bronze age to the present day. The performance lasts fifty minutes and it was fascinating. Afterwards, we ate a delicious meal at Platan, one of Samarkand’s top restaurants. I highly recommend it!
Taking the train back to Tashkent
Leaving Samarkand, we took the train back to Tashkent for one final evening in Uzbekistan. We learnt more of the history of the country during the Soviet times and visited the memorial to the earthquake victims of 1966 which made 200,000 people homeless. Supposedly, the earthquake killed only 10 people, but the actual number is expected to be much higher.
My thoughts about Uzbekistan
After my first short introduction to the ‘Stans’, I can’t wait to go back and discover more of this fascinating region. Overall, I don’t think Uzbekistan can be rivalled for Silk Road history, culture and architectural wonders. It truly is a ‘must-visit’. I believe this region will become more and more popular over the next few years so go now, whilst tourist numbers are relatively low.
In Uzbekistan itself, I recommend adding a visit to the architectural desert city of Khiva, where you can stay in a hotel within the fort. You can also sleep in a yurt in the desert and hike in the mountains, which makes it easy to create a full trip packed with variety.
I recommend mixing the cities with natural landscapes or combining Uzbekistan with another one or more of the neighbouring countries. Technically, it’s even possible see all five of the ‘Stans’ within two weeks, but that would be rushing it and wouldn’t do each destination justice.
Tajikistan offers some of the best hiking and cycling in the region, with the Fan mountains and the Pamir highway. Kyrgyzstan is a great place to visit for a cultural mixture of nomad living, yurt stays, hiking, horse riding and even beach hotels by a lake.
Kazakhstan is home to a mixture of scenery, cosmopolitan cities, and hiking trails in the high plateau steppe. Finally, Turkmenistan boasts ancient cities, camping opportunities and the Darvaza gas craters, or gates of hell, in the Karakum desert.
If you’re eager to explore a region that is still relatively unexplored, this is the place for you. Step back in time and take an unforgettable journey along the ancient Silk Road. You won’t regret it!
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About the author Chris West
Senior Travel Consultant
With his studies in Geography and Master’s degree in development behind him, Chris set off to leave pretty much no mountain unclimbed. His passion for adventure has driven him to climb both Kilimanjaro and Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal and he and his wife have also traversed Canada and all the way down through the Americas by bike! Even starting a family didn’t really slow down Team West, as they took their little daughter on a campervan road trip through the US National Parks. Chris joined Travel Nation as a round the world specialist in 2011 and is also one of our Business Class consultants. He really enjoys helping other families put together trips they’ll never forget.
