Home to fascinating wildlife, lush rainforests, and gorgeous beaches, Borneo is a popular destination for outdoor lovers and wildlife enthusiasts alike.
With no direct flights from the UK, a holiday to Borneo also offers the perfect opportunity for a city stopover. Most travellers pair Borneo with Kuala Lumpur or Singapore – both buzzing cities brimming with culture and life. However, if you’re looking for something a little different, why not choose a stopover in Brunei?
I flew to Brunei from London (via Dubai) with Royal Brunei Airlines, and then to Kota Kinabalu a few days later. I found Brunei a wonderful destination, with few tourists and welcoming locals. Together, Borneo and Brunei create a holiday full of amazing contrasts. It’s a combination that I highly recommend!
Nestled on the north coast of the island of Borneo, Brunei is a real hidden gem that blends modernity with tradition. An independent Islamic Sultanate with a population of just under half a million people, it boasts huge wealth, due to an abundant supply of oil and gas. Importantly, this wealth guarantees all citizens housing, medical care and a full education.
However, there’s far more to Brunei than money. It may be small, but it packs a punch when it comes to cultural richness and natural beauty. From the majestic Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque to the lush rainforests of Ulu Temburong National Park and the bustling markets of Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei offers a unique experience for travellers eager to get off the beaten path.
My journey began at Heathrow’s Terminal 4, where I was lucky enough to be upgraded to business class aboard their Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner aircraft. Royal Brunei’s business class cabin is roomy and spacious, with only 18 seats that convert to very comfortable beds. It felt very exclusive indeed!
The onboard service and food were both excellent, and the friendly staff were extremely proud to represent their national airline. They demonstrated the genuinely warm hospitality that I was to experience in their home country. We can add flights with Royal Brunei to any of our tailor-made Borneo holidays, so feel free to ask!
On the way home, I travelled in the economy cabin, and I was still very impressed by the service and the generous pitch. The food was tasty, with both Asian and Western options, and there were plenty of entertainment options.
It is important to note that no alcohol is sold aboard flights operated by Royal Brunei. However, non-Muslim passengers are allowed to bring alcohol aboard for personal consumption and the airline will provide mixers for alcoholic drinks. Bear in mind that Bandar Seri Begawan is also a ‘dry’ airport.
On arrival in Bandar Seri Begawan, I was met and transferred to the Radisson Hotel Brunei Darussalam, just a 15-minute drive from the airport. The hotel is in a great location with comfortable rooms, good dining options, and a generous pool area – lovely for a refreshing dip after a day of sightseeing.
Slightly out of town, you'll also find many resort-style hotels with large grounds, beaches, multiple pools, games rooms, golf, tennis etc. Again, as Brunei is a ‘dry’ country, the hotels and resorts do not sell alcohol. However, you can bring a limited amount of alcohol into Brunei to consume in your room. It is forbidden to appear intoxicated in public.
Brunei is blessed with great cuisine, elaborate architecture, culture and interesting history, all of which can be easily sampled by pre-booking a guide and driver. The city feels very safe, it is well known for having very little crime, so wandering from the hotel to explore on foot is also a great option.
My definite highlight of the sightseeing was a boat tour along the banks of the Brunei River where, on a good day, you will spot Proboscis monkeys, although they are notoriously shy. We passed mangroves, swamps and water villages, spotting exotic birds along the way. It was a wonderful and relaxing experience.
Our boat tour was followed by a visit to a water village - Kampong Ayer - a settlement built on stilts over the water. Nicknamed ‘The Venice of the East’, Kampong Ayer is far bigger than I ever imagined. It's home to several neighbourhoods which all have their own churches and mosques. In total, around 11,000 people live here.
It was fascinating to walk from home to home on boarded paths a few feet above the water, and to be treated to traditional tea and cakes in one of the villager’s homes. I felt as though it gave me a real glimpse into traditional Brunei.
After a traditional noodle lunch at Soto Pabo, a small restaurant that overlooks Kampong Ayer, I headed back to town, stopping on the way to visit the stunning Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque, one of two national mosques. A huge landmark with golden domes it is surrounded by water and beautifully manicured gardens, making it a wonderful place for a relaxing stroll whilst admiring the grand building.
This left the rest of the afternoon free to visit the Royal Regalia Museum which houses the Sultanate’s heirlooms and regalia. The biggest and most opulent item you'll see is the golden chariot, used in the huge procession for the Sultan’s silver jubilee celebration in 1992. Well worth a visit and best to allow at least an hour or two to take it all in.
Like many other Asian cities, there's no shortage of restaurants in Bandar Seri Begawan. However, for a genuinely authentic experience, the food markets are THE place to go.
I visited the Gadong Night market where row upon row of small stalls sell everything from grilled chicken and barbecued fish to sweet desserts - all at incredibly low prices by Western standards. The markets are always full of locals eating or grabbing supplies on their way home from work.
For a more upmarket eating experience, I highly recommend Pondok Sari Wagi restaurant. It's a lovely place that serves Indonesian cuisine, with a huge menu and great seafood. It was absolutely rammed with locals on a Thursday evening - always a good sign!
Don’t miss your chance to try Ambuyat, Brunei’s national dish. Made from the trunk of the sago palm, it’s a starchy mix served with a spicy and sour dip called cacah. You twirl the sticky mix onto chopsticks like candy floss before dipping it into the cacah – it’s a pretty unique way of eating!
Overall, I found Brunei to be a very welcoming and hospitable country with a lovely blend of old and new. The food is great, the culture is fascinating, and the natural scenery is stunning too. If you’re looking for a stopover destination on the way to Borneo that stands out from the crowd, Brunei ticks all the boxes.
From Brunei, I flew on to Kota Kinabalu, where I stayed in the beautiful Shangri-La Tanjung Aru resort, just ten minutes from the airport. It’s a beautiful resort with its own private marina, as well as six restaurants and bars. It’s the perfect place to relax before heading off to explore the nature and wildlife of Borneo.
From Kota Kinabalu, you can climb Mount Kinabalu and exploring the surrounding national park. Then, you can sail down the Kinabatangan River into the heart of Borneo’s rainforest, spotting wildlife along the way. At Sepilok, you can meet the cheeky orang-utans and see sun bears, before heading to Sandakan to learn about turtle conservation.
Combining Borneo with Brunei will create an itinerary full of contrasts and packed with culture, nature and adventure. From Brunei, you can fly on to Melbourne as well as other exciting Asian destinations, such as Manila and Tokyo. This gives you the freedom to build the multi-destination holiday of a lifetime!
If you’re after a holiday with a difference, Borneo and Brunei could be the perfect answer! I had a wonderful time, and I can’t recommend it highly enough.

Senior Travel Consultant
at Travel Nation

Managing Director
at Travel Nation
Groups and Weddings Manager
Mark’s passion for travel developed after a childhood spent exploring the USA, Burma, and Indonesia with his family. Intrigued by the contrasts within one country, Mark spent his gap year in South Africa before travelling all over the world from the Canadian Rockies to the jungles of Vietnam. With almost 20 years’ experience organising tailor-made trips and specifically group travel arrangements all over the world, Mark joined Travel Nation in 2014. He specialises in planning weddings abroad and currently heads up both our Group Travel and Overseas Weddings teams. When he’s not at work, you can find him getting his fill of live sports, from cricket to football and anything else in between.